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Month: February 2011

Scottish Monsoon

Quite wet and mild over the past few days up here in Scotland, still managed to get out and get some routes done. Mixed lines on the buttress’s or ridges were the way forward. Fingers crossed the rain doesn’t wash too much snow away before it gets cold again over the weekend. East looks better, the northern cairngorms should be a good bet. For the moment it’s coffee and cake in Fort...

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Busy on the Ben

Good conditions yesterday on Ben Nevis, really busy with it being half term though. Teams on pretty much every part of the mountain, and queues on some routes. We were practicing snow belays and pitched our way up a fairly firm no. 4 gully. Climbing in Glencoe today, hoping to find a quiet...

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How to destroy your winter boots

Had a unusual day at Creag Meagaidh today. Climbing with Dave and Steve we choose the ice gully called Ritchie’s gully. As Dave arrived at the belay after the first pitch he was feeling pretty pleased with the climbing but his boots had other idea’s. Old Asolo plastic boots, with hard brittle plastic didn’t enjoy the pounding they got on the crux first pitch. They litterally fell apart before our eyes – it was time to head down! One 60m abseil followed by three 120m lowers and Dave was safe and sound back down at the Loch. The chances...

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Classic Ben Nevis ridge climbs

Ben Nevis is definitely my favorite Scottish Mountain in the winter. Not only is it the highest but it’s got pretty much every climb you could ask for; Gully’s, mixed, icy faces and brilliant ridges. On Thursday the weather forecast was good, the avalanche conditions were stabilising and it was time to tackle a bigger route and finally get to the summit after several windy days had discouraged us from heading up there. I met my dad at the CIC hut in the morning and after a quick bowl of tea and a gear sort we were at the...

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