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Month: December 2011

Taking the Lob.

Yesterday I made the long drive back down to Devon after two weeks of early season Scottish climbing. I’m annoyed my camera died halfway through, so may good photo opportunities missed but I’ve learnt my lesson – better packing next time. So four trips to the Loch Avon Basin and some good battling in dodgy weather in the northern corries as well. Lou and I climbed Afterthought Arete on Stag rocks on Sunday which is a great route for grade III and a aesthetic line. We didn’t start the route until three o’clock so it was quite dark by the time we...

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Mess of Pottage – Sneachda.

I know the blog’s been a little quiet over the last couple of days, I have been getting out though but a lack of WiFi and a dead camera battery has made uploading good blog posts a little tricky. I’m writing this on my phone so excuse the spelling.. I’ve ended up climbing in Coire an-t Sneachda for a couple of days, which isn’t my favorite crag but it is very convenient and a good option when climbing partners are fatigued or the weather’s bad. On Monday Lou, Tomas and I walked in and headed up to Pot of Gold which is a good 4 pitch mixed route at V, 6. It was in good icy condition and was a really enjoyable day, especially the banter on the belay which is a definite plus side to climbing as a three. It was nice to give Lou her first grade 5 as well. I woke up on Tuesday to some strong winds and plenty of snow sat on top of the van so it wasn’t a hard decision to have an admin day in aviemore. Today dawned a lot clearer so Lou and I were up early and heading back up to the cairngorm car park, but we were delayed yet again by ice on the ski road, so we had to wait about an hour and a half before...

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Quiet on the Shelterstone

It was Nicks final day of climbing yesterday, and we were keen to head back over into the Loch Avon valley and climb on the Shelterstone. Yet again it had snowed and froze overnight so our planned early departure was delayed by the Cairngorm Ski road being shut, so we queued along with all the other climbers waiting to drive up to the top car park. It was pretty busy, probably due to the A82 being shut keeping people away from the West Coast. Despite a delay we walked into Sneachda and up the Goat track before heading in a big...

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Stirling Bomber and The Seam.

Had a great day in the Northern Corries in the Cairngorms, good weather, conditions and quiet in the normally busy Sneachda. What a difference 12 hours make, after all the gales yesterday it was quiet on the weather front today. We had a leisurely start, made even later by the fact they were clearing the ski road up to Cairngorm, and when we eventually made it to the carpark there was a fairly large delivery truck on it’s side that had been blown over in the wind. We started off with the classic chimney struggle of The Stirling Bomber which lived...

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Cairngorms, Etchachan and Coire An Lochain

A great couple of days here in the Cairngorms. The big storm is due to hit later today so we’re seizing an opportunity for a rest day and some coffee drinking in Aviemore. On Tuesday we headed to Carn Etchachan and climbed “Nom Du Plume” which was a mixed grade VI, 7 which produced three brilliant pitches. Some steep hooking on bomber placements led into a chimney and finally a steep corner to finish. It was a fantastic day, light winds and great visibility so it was good to put some extra effort in and walk over to the Loch Avon basin rather than...

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