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Month: January 2012

Wind and Spindrift in Sneachda, The Message and Hybrid Combo.

Matt, Emma and I went for an optimistic walk into Sneachda this morning, passing a few teams who had turned back after just a few minutes walk. Never a good sign…. It was a bit better once we were in the Coire itself, we headed to the Mess of Pottage and climbed a good combination of the message, before a quick abseil to access the Hybrid which took us to the same abseil station and a finish up the message. Does that make sense? Anyway, about 6 pitches of climbing with some good spindrift getting blown off the top...

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Winter is back.

The weather has gone cold again in time for the weekend, and plenty of folk seem to have made the drive/fly/train journey up to Scotland to sample the climbing. Sneachda was really busy yesterday, with many teams on the gullies and some buttress routes like Fingers ridge, Fluted Buttress direct and Pygmy Ridge. I had a late start after some admin time in the morning. My climbing partners were otherwise engaged so I headed out on my tod, billy no mates style. I was originally going to solo something in Sneachda but the gullies were so busy I went...

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BMG Winter training course

Just back in Newtonmore after four days on the BMG winter training course. Some mixed weather, including a really wet day in Glencoe when we were looking at some short roping where everything got a soaking. Yesterday was spent looking at the Scottish snowpack and avalanche hazard which was timed perfectly for a day when the hazard was higher than had been forecasted. We found a human-triggered avalanche that had gone off about five minutes before we arrived and had travelled around a hundred meters. It was a good reminder about how much you have to be on the...

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The Melting Pot, Sneachda

Dragged myself out of bed this morning to find a lot of fresh snow pilled on top of my van, the new winter tyres proved their worth this morning on the drive back up to Cairngorm. Rocio and I walked back into Sneachda hoping for some tricky mixed climbing, on something that would push the comfort level a little but we soon realised it wasn’t to be. The new snow had obviously been very dry, and the winds strong so it hadn’t stuck to the crags at all. Luckily the Mess of Pottage was rimed up from the westerly...

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A return to Glencoe

Matt and I made the drive over to the West coast from Newtonmore again today. We drove past Meggy, The Ben and finally parked in Glencoe opposite Stob Coire Nan Lochain, quite a early start and a long drive. It is defiantly one of my favourite cliffs, where I have many fond memories of my first ever winter lead (Y Gully right hand with my dad, it was terrifying) and working through the grades with different climbing partners in the last few years. Unfortunately our intended mixed line was too black for our winter ethics today. We were a...

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Summit selfie on the Domes du Miage this morning.
A great trip from the Conscrits Refuge and a ski all the way down to the valley floor.

#skiguide #chamonix #skitour #MtnGuide #verticalfrontiers #britishmountainguides
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