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Month: December 2012

Finding shelter on the Douglas Boulder, Ben Nevis

It’s been a bit of a mixed week for the weather up here in Scotland. Very strong Easterly winds have been whipping across the Cairngorm Plateau making climbing pretty much impossible. The day after climbing on Hells Lum we headed back up to the Cairngorm car park with the intention of beating the weather that was due to arrive later that day and sneak a route in. Unfortunately the wind was already howling when we parked the car, so we faffed until daylight and fought our way into Sneachda into a horrific headwind hoping to find shelter when we...

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Deep Cut Chimney, Hell’s Lum

It’s been almost ten months since I was last in Scotland winter climbing, but it’s funny how quickly the old routines come back. Yesterday’s drive up from Devon had left me pretty knackered, even with Matt in the car sharing the driving, but with a stellar weather forecast we set the alarms early to make the most of the good weather. We had plans on the Shelterstone, with a back up of Hell’s Lum if our first option didn’t work out. It tempted us all the way to the bottom of the crag, which turned out to be far...

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Scottish Winter Mountaineering Course

Based out of Newtonmore (near Aviemore) close to the Cairngorms National Park and Creag Meagaidh, these courses are suitable for people wanting a solid introduction to winter Mountaineering. Covering some steeper ground, typically grade I gullies, we will use a rope to safe guard our ascents. This is the gap between winter walking and climbing and typically one axe is sufficient. These core skills are vital for anyone wanting to climb the classic gullies in Scotland and for those wishing to progress onto steeper climbs. Over the two days we will cover topics such as; Snow anchors and belays...

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Commando Ridge and Bosigran

Over the past couple of weeks Chris and I have been keeping an eye on the weather forecast in the south-west with a view of heading down to Cornwall for three days of sea cliff climbing. Chris has been down climbing with me a few times now, on Dartmoor, Portland and Cheddar Gorge and is quickly developing into a steady climber, he was looking to do some trad leading in Cornwall so we wanted dry rock, something which can be in short supply in December! Finally last week the forecast was looking better, although Sunday was going to be...

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