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Month: July 2016

Two countries, one mountain and one tired family

A great few days with the Burns family here in Chamonix, on a return trip after last years visit, this time with Ewen along for the alpine action as well. We had a good but long day traversing from the Swiss refuge Cabane d’Orny, over the Trient Glacier up to the Aiguille du Tour before heading past the French Albert Premier refuge an on down to the Chamonix valley. It was a mega hot day, and despite the early start it soon got super warm and we were down to the thermal base layers and re-applying sunscreen every half...

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Full moon and mild on Mont Blanc

The superb weather and conditions continue out here in the alps. It’s turning into a great season now with just the occasional blip of bad weather followed by the sunshine again. People are climbing all over now, and some of the major, high mountain rock routes are getting climbed too. Training and acclimatisation for Mont Blanc – The Grand Paradiso We’ve had a great six days with Canadians Jean, Claude and Sylvain on one of our Mont Blanc courses. A good mix of training, practice and acclimatisation. It’s a tricky balance sometimes, and it’s easy to over do it...

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Mont Blanc – Italian style

Well what a week that has been. Five days of quality climbing, weather and conditions with a couple of my strongest ever Mont Blanc potentials. The weather and conditions have been perfect this week in Chamonix. Stable weather and plenty of snow which has been getting a good overnight freeze each day. Lee and Niall were on good form, are both super fit and although it was lee’s first trip to the alps he had some good Scottish winter mountaineering experience behind him. Niall I had climbed and skied with before – I knew he was keen for an...

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Chamonix climbing conditions report – 2nd July 2016

The transformation from winter conditions to summer continues since the last blog. There is still plenty of snow around for the time of year, the glaciers are in good condition and the snow routes are generally excellent. For rock routes there is still a lot of snow either on the approaches or on the rock itself. South facing routes are the order of the day. The aiguille rouge is getting climbed on, but there is tons of snow up there, so axes and crampons are required, especially after an overnight freeze. Some of the classic mountaineering routes are superb,...

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Tip top conditions on the Weissmeis traverse

Back in Chamonix after an alpine start from the Almageller Hutte yesterday morning, and an excellent traverse of the Weissmeis in the Swiss Valais. It was a new route for me, as I had previously done the normal route from the Saas Grund side but had never the the “Alpine Classic” traverse via the South East ridge. So it was a nice opportunity to talk about how to plan routes with Laura and Vanessa. Reading guidebooks, maps, online resource’s and chatting to fellow mountain guides! The Weissmeis was going to be our big mountain of the week, and we...

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Another day of laps in the trees. Low angled slopes avoiding the avi hazard and trying to keep out of the wind. Pretty wild weather at the moment.

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Mellow laps through the trees with Rob and Louise today. So quiet - fresh tracks all day 👍

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Superb weather and soft snow on the Vallee Blanche today. Even got some fresh tracks, although not shown on this video.
A pleasure to be skiing and guiding the white valley again 👍⛷

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A bit wind blown up top but some pretty good snow lower down. Good fun being #skiguide for Rich and Andrew.

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