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Month: August 2016

Frendo Spur with a Bivouac

A great ascent of this Chamonix classic with Pat and Phoebe. The Frendo spur is a fantastic aesthetic route and very visible from the centre of Chamonix and especially on the way up to the Aiguille du Midi in the cable car. The route stands out with its rocky lower buttress into the elegant snow arete higher up. There’s not many alpinists who have been in that lift that haven’t stared at the route and imagined climbing it. Frendo Spur tactics It’s super hot here in Chamonix at the moment, and as we were climbing as a three and...

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Five days and four 4000m peaks – Matterhorn success

As an honorary member of the “Matterhorn Boys” club, Rob was well overdue a Matterhorn ascent himself. Arthur was easily persuaded, and so we had a little team for a five day trip. Based from Zermatt, we would have three days preparation and training before tackling the ‘horn on the final two days. The boys were gambling on the weather being good for that final day, but at least we would be well acclimatised and practiced before the final ascent. Acclimatisation and training for the Hornli ridge on the Matterhorn After coffee and kit faff we headed up the Zermatt lift system to the top of the Klein Matterhorn. We were now at 3800m and although Rob and Arthur had gotten quite high the day before we met, we took it pretty easy walking across the glacier and down the the Ayes refuge in Italy. We were due to spend two nights here, which at 3400m would be excellent acclimatisation as well as giving access to the spectacular high peaks that form the frontier between Switzerland and Italy. The normal route on Castor, followed by a traverse of Pollux During the night we had another thunderstorm, and it had put down a surprising amount of hail that had settled on the snow and rock ledges. We had a five o’clock breakfast and left the hut just before it got light,...

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Summit selfie on the Domes du Miage this morning.
A great trip from the Conscrits Refuge and a ski all the way down to the valley floor.

#skiguide #chamonix #skitour #MtnGuide #verticalfrontiers #britishmountainguides
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