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East Ridge – Breithorn AD-, III-

Route:

East Ridge – Breithorn - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

With such easy access from Zermatt using the lift system, the Breithorn is one of the most popular 4000m peaks of the Alps. The Breithorn, or “broad peak", stretches over two kilometres across the Zermatt skyline.

 Although the normal route is an easy snow plod from the lift, the East ridge, or half traverse, is a brilliant mixed route with the bonus of a quick descent back to the lift station. After a glaciated approach, an often icy slope leading to the col, the ridge rises in a series of rock steps, which are mostly scrambling or short pitches of grade III climbing.

Lot's of moving together, short roping and short pitching up good solid rock. The ridge then narrows into a fine snow arete which leads on to the summit. The nature and the altitude of the route means it is a great “training” climb for longer or more committing mountains, such as the Matterhorn's Hornli ridge.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate. Good general mountaineering skills.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4164m

520m ascent from Klien Matterhorn lift

Time/duration:

4 - 5 hours in ascent, 1.5 hours descent.

Starting point/base:

Klien Matterhorn lift accessed from Zermatt, or Guide d'Ayas refugio.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

Normally Mid June to end of September, but conditions vary every season.

Snow on the route makes it much harder. Look for dry conditions.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

Lots of other ascents in this area, including the snow twins Castor and Pollux.

> Return to Route Index

Fred striking the classic Entreves pose.

Alpine climbing before the rain arrives this afternoon.

📷: @skiascent

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2 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Summit of the #Eiger this morning with Sarah.

Good conditions on the south ridge from the Monchjoch Hut, and we had the top to ourselves. Being patient with the weather paid off in the end. ☀️

Lots of teams on the other nearby classics: Monch, Jungfrau, Fisherhorn etc

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#alpinism @ Grindelwald, Switzerland
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3 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Eiger plans on hold for 24 hours. Waiting for the snow to burn off a bit. Instead we traversed the Monch, via a verglas encrusted SW ridge.

Now resting before tomorrow’s early start for the Eiger south ridge.

/

Our #MontBlanc team were successful on the Grand Paradiso yesterday. Currently on route back to Chamonix.

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#climbing_is_my_passion @ Mönchsjochhütte
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Some new (sunny) photos added to the Aiguille de l'Index route page. ... See MoreSee Less

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Climbing the Index with Sarah this morning. A nice mellow day after an especially long day on Monte Viso’s east ridge a couple of days ago.

Pretty busy on the route today, we did about a million short pitches for practice and to give the other teams some room.

A rest day tomorrow, and then the Eiger 👍🏔

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+33 (0) 787371926

We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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