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East Ridge – Breithorn AD-, III-

Route:

East Ridge – Breithorn - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

With such easy access from Zermatt using the lift system, the Breithorn is one of the most popular 4000m peaks of the Alps. The Breithorn, or “broad peak", stretches over two kilometres across the Zermatt skyline.

 Although the normal route is an easy snow plod from the lift, the East ridge, or half traverse, is a brilliant mixed route with the bonus of a quick descent back to the lift station. After a glaciated approach, an often icy slope leading to the col, the ridge rises in a series of rock steps, which are mostly scrambling or short pitches of grade III climbing.

Lot's of moving together, short roping and short pitching up good solid rock. The ridge then narrows into a fine snow arete which leads on to the summit. The nature and the altitude of the route means it is a great “training” climb for longer or more committing mountains, such as the Matterhorn's Hornli ridge.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate. Good general mountaineering skills.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4164m

520m ascent from Klien Matterhorn lift

Time/duration:

4 - 5 hours in ascent, 1.5 hours descent.

Starting point/base:

Klien Matterhorn lift accessed from Zermatt, or Guide d'Ayas refugio.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

Normally Mid June to end of September, but conditions vary every season.

Snow on the route makes it much harder. Look for dry conditions.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

Lots of other ascents in this area, including the snow twins Castor and Pollux.

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Up early to catch the frozen snow, and a bonus sunrise on the 4327m Nadelhorn.

Perfect conditions, and super quiet. We’re back here on the 30th August if anyone’s keen....?

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All six of us to the top of #montblanc yesterday - great weather and conditions.

We even hung out at the summit for a while, a rare treat!

Thanks also to @claphamski for guiding.

Our next Mont Blanc trip starts today with the Grand Paradiso. Let’s hope this weather lasts 🤞

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#britishmountainguides
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On our way to the Tete Rousse refuge today - Mont Blanc tomorrow.

Weather looks pretty good 🤞

#verticalfrontiers
#britishmountainguides
#climbing_is_my_passion
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Managed to sneak onto the summit of the Grand Paradiso between two days of unsettled and stormy weather.

A little trail breaking was required. All good prep for #montblanc - we’re heading that way tomorrow.

#verticalfrontiers #mountaineering #britishmountainguides
#mtnguide #chamonix #climbing_is_my_passion
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Here we go - day 1 of this weeks #MontBlanc trip.
A damp start, but still smiling. Up to the Grand Paradiso for the next three days.

#chamonix #verticalfrontiers #climbing_is_my_passion #britishmountainguides
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+33 (0) 787371926

We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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