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Chere Couloir - Aiguille du Midi - Chamonix - France
Another very popular Chamonix classic. An easily accessible ice route not far from the Aiguille du Midi lift station.
The difficulties are roughly equivalent to Scottish grade IV, but this very much depends on the condition of the ice, which can be very hard in dry conditions.
After an lower angled pitch over the bergshrund, the route follows the obvious couloir in four or five pitches, with belays (some bolted) on the right hand wall. Above, the angle eases and one could climb onwards to the summit of the Tacul, or abseil back down the route (being careful of parties climbing below).
Required experience/skill level:
Advanced – previous climbing multi pitch experience, and ice climbing required.
Length (in metres):
Aiguille du midi Cable car station
Maximum guide ratio:
February – October. A very reliable route conditions wise.
Links/ featured courses:
This is one of Chamonix's most popular routes, and it can get very busy. Other options exist on the Triangle du Tacul, and sometimes it's worth staying at the Cosmiques refuge the night before to ensure an early start.