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Dent du Geant, Italy

Route:

Normal Route – Dent du Geant - Chamonix

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

One of the most spectacular 4000m summits in the alps, the Dent du Geant sticks out from the surrounding peaks drawing the eye from miles around.

It's an impressive rock formation that attracts a lot of attention from mountaineers, and it is not uncommon to have to queue on busy summer days.

The Dent du Geant (giants tooth) was first climbed by the South-West face using artificial aid and fixed ropes, and this style of climbing continues on this route to this day. Large gym like ropes are strung up the face, allowing you to climb on an otherwise very difficult route.

Despite the fixed ropes, the route is highly physical as you pull yourself up the steeper sections. The altitude plays a part too, with the summit just over 4000m, you will feel the thin air.

To access the base of the Dent, we climb broken ground and steep snow after leaving the glacier. This approach takes around 2 hours from the refuge.

Lightweight mountaineering boots are normally fine, or warm rock shoes once you get onto the rock.

It is common to start from the Torino refuge early in the morning, rather than catching the first lift of the day.

Required experience/skill level:

Advanced

Good general mountaineering skills and some rock climbing strength very useful.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4013m

700m ascent from Torino refuge

Time/duration:

1 day

5 – 6 hours from Torino refuge.

3 – 4 hours descent to refuge from the summit.

Starting point/base:

Helbronner lift/Torino refuge.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

June - October

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

There are a number of great short routes accessible from the Torino refuge, meaning a two or three day trip in this area with the Dent du Geant being the ultimate objective works well for training and acclimatisation.

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Fred striking the classic Entreves pose.

Alpine climbing before the rain arrives this afternoon.

📷: @skiascent

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2 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Summit of the #Eiger this morning with Sarah.

Good conditions on the south ridge from the Monchjoch Hut, and we had the top to ourselves. Being patient with the weather paid off in the end. ☀️

Lots of teams on the other nearby classics: Monch, Jungfrau, Fisherhorn etc

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#alpinism @ Grindelwald, Switzerland
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3 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Eiger plans on hold for 24 hours. Waiting for the snow to burn off a bit. Instead we traversed the Monch, via a verglas encrusted SW ridge.

Now resting before tomorrow’s early start for the Eiger south ridge.

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Our #MontBlanc team were successful on the Grand Paradiso yesterday. Currently on route back to Chamonix.

#busyseason #verticalfrontiers
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#climbing_is_my_passion @ Mönchsjochhütte
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Some new (sunny) photos added to the Aiguille de l'Index route page. ... See MoreSee Less

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Climbing the Index with Sarah this morning. A nice mellow day after an especially long day on Monte Viso’s east ridge a couple of days ago.

Pretty busy on the route today, we did about a million short pitches for practice and to give the other teams some room.

A rest day tomorrow, and then the Eiger 👍🏔

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#chamonix
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+33 (0) 787371926

We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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