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Dent du Geant, Italy

Route:

Normal Route – Dent du Geant - Chamonix

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

One of the most spectacular 4000m summits in the alps, the Dent du Geant sticks out from the surrounding peaks drawing the eye from miles around.

It's an impressive rock formation that attracts a lot of attention from mountaineers, and it is not uncommon to have to queue on busy summer days.

The Dent du Geant (giants tooth) was first climbed by the South-West face using artificial aid and fixed ropes, and this style of climbing continues on this route to this day. Large gym like ropes are strung up the face, allowing you to climb on an otherwise very difficult route.

Despite the fixed ropes, the route is highly physical as you pull yourself up the steeper sections. The altitude plays a part too, with the summit just over 4000m, you will feel the thin air.

To access the base of the Dent, we climb broken ground and steep snow after leaving the glacier. This approach takes around 2 hours from the refuge.

Lightweight mountaineering boots are normally fine, or warm rock shoes once you get onto the rock.

It is common to start from the Torino refuge early in the morning, rather than catching the first lift of the day.

Required experience/skill level:

Advanced

Good general mountaineering skills and some rock climbing strength very useful.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4013m

700m ascent from Torino refuge

Time/duration:

1 day

5 – 6 hours from Torino refuge.

3 – 4 hours descent to refuge from the summit.

Starting point/base:

Helbronner lift/Torino refuge.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

June - October

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

There are a number of great short routes accessible from the Torino refuge, meaning a two or three day trip in this area with the Dent du Geant being the ultimate objective works well for training and acclimatisation.

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Up early to catch the frozen snow, and a bonus sunrise on the 4327m Nadelhorn.

Perfect conditions, and super quiet. We’re back here on the 30th August if anyone’s keen....?

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All six of us to the top of #montblanc yesterday - great weather and conditions.

We even hung out at the summit for a while, a rare treat!

Thanks also to @claphamski for guiding.

Our next Mont Blanc trip starts today with the Grand Paradiso. Let’s hope this weather lasts 🤞

#verticalfrontiers #mountaineering
#britishmountainguides
#climbing_is_my_passion
#mtnguide
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On our way to the Tete Rousse refuge today - Mont Blanc tomorrow.

Weather looks pretty good 🤞

#verticalfrontiers
#britishmountainguides
#climbing_is_my_passion
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Managed to sneak onto the summit of the Grand Paradiso between two days of unsettled and stormy weather.

A little trail breaking was required. All good prep for #montblanc - we’re heading that way tomorrow.

#verticalfrontiers #mountaineering #britishmountainguides
#mtnguide #chamonix #climbing_is_my_passion
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Here we go - day 1 of this weeks #MontBlanc trip.
A damp start, but still smiling. Up to the Grand Paradiso for the next three days.

#chamonix #verticalfrontiers #climbing_is_my_passion #britishmountainguides
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We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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