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Frendo Spur D+ / III

Route:

Frendo Spur -  Aiguille du Midi - Chamonix - France

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

An eye catching and sought after route featuring solid rock climbing and a soaring snow arete. The line catches the sun early and this can soften the snow arete into unclimbable slush. Leave early, or bivouac at the start of the snow arete (good ledges).

Much of the lower ridge can be climbed moving together and with short pitches, an efficient approach will save a lot of time on this big route.

From the Plan d'Aiguille refuge or lift station, cross the Glacier des Pelerins to the foot of the spur in one hour.

A left to right slanting ramp leads towards the crest of the buttress. Just before the crest head left and continue scrambling past short steps (III) and easier sections climbing rightwards towards a large flake (4c) to the crest of the ridge.

Follow this easier open ground for several hundred meters. When the buttress suddenly steepens, traverse a few meters left and climb on the left of the ridge to an exposed col.

After the crux corner crack (5b, pegs), climb the sustained ground (III & IV well protected) on the left of the spur.

More short steps and scrambling brings you soon to the base of the snow ridge. This elegant arete gradually steepens towards the final rocky buttress. This is usually skirted on the right or left, sometimes producing a section of steeper ice (<65*).

Follow the ridge to the Aiguille du Midi lift station.

Required experience/skill level:

Advanced – good rock climbing and alpine ice experience required.

Length (in metres):

1200m

Time/duration:

1 – 2 days

Starting point/base:

Chamonix

from Plan d'Aiguille: middle station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car

Maximum guide ratio:

1:1

Normal season:

July - September

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

The line catches the sun early and this can soften the snow arete into unclimbable slush. Leave early, or bivouac at the start of the snow arete (good ledges).
Much of the lower ridge can be climbed moving together and with short pitches, an efficient approach will save a lot of time on this big route.

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