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Hornli Ridge – Matterhorn AD, III-

Route:

Hornli Ridge – Matterhorn - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

The Matterhorn is one of the world's most recognisable mountains, standing tall and alone above the town of Zermatt in Switzerland. It’s an intimidating peak, with steep faces and ridge lines with no easy route to the summit.

First climbed in 1865, the Matterhorn is steeped in legend and history. The epic story of the first ascent along with the north face are well worth a read. The Hornli ridge is the standard route up the mountain, and is essentially a sustained scramble with occasional harder sections. It is a very long route, and the descent often takes longer than the climb. Good fitness, foot work and excellent scrambling skills are essential.  It is normal to start the ascent in the dark using head torches and to arrive at the more technical pitches below the emergency Solvay hut as it is getting light. These are rates II+/III in difficulty and are often abseiled in descent. Above the shoulder it can get snowy and icy, and it is here that the fixed metal gear and the ropes are very useful, although at over 4000m it is still very physical.

After the fixed ropes, the summit snow slopes lead to the final narrow ridge from where you will find an uninterrupted vista of 4000m peaks, from Mont Blanc to the nearby Monta Rosa maasif.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate – Advanced. Good general mountaineering skills.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4478m

1220m ascent from Hornli Hutte

Time/duration:

2 days (including hut approach)

4 - 5 hours in ascent, 4 – 6 hours descent.

Starting point/base:

Hornli Hut, accessed from Zermatt using lift system and two hour approach walk.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:1

Normal season:

Normally Mid July to Mid September, but conditions vary every season.

Snow on the route makes it much harder. Look for dry conditions, and stable weather.

Links/ featured courses:

Comments/notes:

The Matterhorn's altitude means that being acclimatized is very important. Our standard six day trip gives you time to adjust to the thin air as well as practicing the skills required for a successful and safe ascent.

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Up early to catch the frozen snow, and a bonus sunrise on the 4327m Nadelhorn.

Perfect conditions, and super quiet. We’re back here on the 30th August if anyone’s keen....?

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All six of us to the top of #montblanc yesterday - great weather and conditions.

We even hung out at the summit for a while, a rare treat!

Thanks also to @claphamski for guiding.

Our next Mont Blanc trip starts today with the Grand Paradiso. Let’s hope this weather lasts 🤞

#verticalfrontiers #mountaineering
#britishmountainguides
#climbing_is_my_passion
#mtnguide
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On our way to the Tete Rousse refuge today - Mont Blanc tomorrow.

Weather looks pretty good 🤞

#verticalfrontiers
#britishmountainguides
#climbing_is_my_passion
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Managed to sneak onto the summit of the Grand Paradiso between two days of unsettled and stormy weather.

A little trail breaking was required. All good prep for #montblanc - we’re heading that way tomorrow.

#verticalfrontiers #mountaineering #britishmountainguides
#mtnguide #chamonix #climbing_is_my_passion
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Here we go - day 1 of this weeks #MontBlanc trip.
A damp start, but still smiling. Up to the Grand Paradiso for the next three days.

#chamonix #verticalfrontiers #climbing_is_my_passion #britishmountainguides
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We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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