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Hornli Ridge – Matterhorn AD, III-

Route:

Hornli Ridge – Matterhorn - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

The Matterhorn is one of the world's most recognisable mountains, standing tall and alone above the town of Zermatt in Switzerland. It’s an intimidating peak, with steep faces and ridge lines with no easy route to the summit.

First climbed in 1865, the Matterhorn is steeped in legend and history. The epic story of the first ascent along with the north face are well worth a read. The Hornli ridge is the standard route up the mountain, and is essentially a sustained scramble with occasional harder sections. It is a very long route, and the descent often takes longer than the climb. Good fitness, foot work and excellent scrambling skills are essential.  It is normal to start the ascent in the dark using head torches and to arrive at the more technical pitches below the emergency Solvay hut as it is getting light. These are rates II+/III in difficulty and are often abseiled in descent. Above the shoulder it can get snowy and icy, and it is here that the fixed metal gear and the ropes are very useful, although at over 4000m it is still very physical.

After the fixed ropes, the summit snow slopes lead to the final narrow ridge from where you will find an uninterrupted vista of 4000m peaks, from Mont Blanc to the nearby Monta Rosa maasif.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate – Advanced. Good general mountaineering skills.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4478m

1220m ascent from Hornli Hutte

Time/duration:

2 days (including hut approach)

4 - 5 hours in ascent, 4 – 6 hours descent.

Starting point/base:

Hornli Hut, accessed from Zermatt using lift system and two hour approach walk.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:1

Normal season:

Normally Mid July to Mid September, but conditions vary every season.

Snow on the route makes it much harder. Look for dry conditions, and stable weather.

Links/ featured courses:

Comments/notes:

The Matterhorn's altitude means that being acclimatized is very important. Our standard six day trip gives you time to adjust to the thin air as well as practicing the skills required for a successful and safe ascent.

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Fred striking the classic Entreves pose.

Alpine climbing before the rain arrives this afternoon.

📷: @skiascent

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2 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Summit of the #Eiger this morning with Sarah.

Good conditions on the south ridge from the Monchjoch Hut, and we had the top to ourselves. Being patient with the weather paid off in the end. ☀️

Lots of teams on the other nearby classics: Monch, Jungfrau, Fisherhorn etc

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#alpinism @ Grindelwald, Switzerland
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3 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Eiger plans on hold for 24 hours. Waiting for the snow to burn off a bit. Instead we traversed the Monch, via a verglas encrusted SW ridge.

Now resting before tomorrow’s early start for the Eiger south ridge.

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Our #MontBlanc team were successful on the Grand Paradiso yesterday. Currently on route back to Chamonix.

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#climbing_is_my_passion @ Mönchsjochhütte
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Some new (sunny) photos added to the Aiguille de l'Index route page. ... See MoreSee Less

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Climbing the Index with Sarah this morning. A nice mellow day after an especially long day on Monte Viso’s east ridge a couple of days ago.

Pretty busy on the route today, we did about a million short pitches for practice and to give the other teams some room.

A rest day tomorrow, and then the Eiger 👍🏔

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#chamonix
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