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South West Ridge – Pollux PD+, III

South West Ridge – Pollux - Zermatt

South West Ridge – Pollux - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering & Ski Touring

Route Gallery:

Route description:

Pollux is a bit of a snow bump on the ridge when viewd from Zermatt, but the mountain offers several short and accessible routes and from the summit there is a magnificent panorama of the surrounding giants.

The south-west ridge of pollux is the normal route, and offers a varied climb including some scrambling, a harder pitch (complete with fixed chains to pull on) followed by a snow arete to the summit.

It can be a bit crowded on summer days, due to the bottle neck nature of the chains, and this can add to the timings listed below.

For fast teams in good conditions it is possible to make a climb of both Castor and Pollux in a single day, especially if using the Guide d'Ayas refugio rather than rushing back to the lift.

Required experience/skill level:

Beginner - Intermediate

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4092m

350m ascent from Klien Matterhorn lift.

670m from Val d'Ayas refugio

Time/duration:

4 hours in ascent, 3 hours descent to Klien Matterhorn

Starting point/base:

Klien Matterhorn lift accessed from Zermatt, or Guide d'Ayas refugio.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

Normally Mid June to end of September, but conditions vary every season.

Can also be climbed on skis as part of a ski mountaineering trip in the region.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

Lots of other ascents in this area, including the twin of Pollux, Castor.

The half traverse of the Briethorn is another good option, all of which can be climbed from Zermatt using the Klien Matterhorn lift, or from the excellent Guide d'Ayas refugio.

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Fiona’s now well prepped and rested - off to Mont Blanc tomorrow with Guy doing the guiding.

🤞 the weather holds.
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2 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Photos from the summit scramble on the Grand Paradiso.
Good work, and congratulations to Wayne and Jack 👍🏔

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Up early to catch the frozen snow, and a bonus sunrise on the 4327m Nadelhorn.

Perfect conditions, and super quiet. We’re back here on the 30th August if anyone’s keen....?

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All six of us to the top of #montblanc yesterday - great weather and conditions.

We even hung out at the summit for a while, a rare treat!

Thanks also to @claphamski for guiding.

Our next Mont Blanc trip starts today with the Grand Paradiso. Let’s hope this weather lasts 🤞

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#britishmountainguides
#climbing_is_my_passion
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On our way to the Tete Rousse refuge today - Mont Blanc tomorrow.

Weather looks pretty good 🤞

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Managed to sneak onto the summit of the Grand Paradiso between two days of unsettled and stormy weather.

A little trail breaking was required. All good prep for #montblanc - we’re heading that way tomorrow.

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