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South West Ridge – Pollux PD+, III

South West Ridge – Pollux - Zermatt

South West Ridge – Pollux - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering & Ski Touring

Route Gallery:

Route description:

Pollux is a bit of a snow bump on the ridge when viewd from Zermatt, but the mountain offers several short and accessible routes and from the summit there is a magnificent panorama of the surrounding giants.

The south-west ridge of pollux is the normal route, and offers a varied climb including some scrambling, a harder pitch (complete with fixed chains to pull on) followed by a snow arete to the summit.

It can be a bit crowded on summer days, due to the bottle neck nature of the chains, and this can add to the timings listed below.

For fast teams in good conditions it is possible to make a climb of both Castor and Pollux in a single day, especially if using the Guide d'Ayas refugio rather than rushing back to the lift.

Required experience/skill level:

Beginner - Intermediate

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4092m

350m ascent from Klien Matterhorn lift.

670m from Val d'Ayas refugio

Time/duration:

4 hours in ascent, 3 hours descent to Klien Matterhorn

Starting point/base:

Klien Matterhorn lift accessed from Zermatt, or Guide d'Ayas refugio.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

Normally Mid June to end of September, but conditions vary every season.

Can also be climbed on skis as part of a ski mountaineering trip in the region.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

Lots of other ascents in this area, including the twin of Pollux, Castor.

The half traverse of the Briethorn is another good option, all of which can be climbed from Zermatt using the Klien Matterhorn lift, or from the excellent Guide d'Ayas refugio.

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First day out for our #Matterhorn week. Scrambling on the Grand Montet ridge before rock climbing in the valley.

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Fred striking the classic Entreves pose.

Alpine climbing before the rain arrives this afternoon.

📷: @skiascent

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2 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Summit of the #Eiger this morning with Sarah.

Good conditions on the south ridge from the Monchjoch Hut, and we had the top to ourselves. Being patient with the weather paid off in the end. ☀️

Lots of teams on the other nearby classics: Monch, Jungfrau, Fisherhorn etc

#verticalfrontiers #mtnguide
#climbing_is_my_passion
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#alpinism @ Grindelwald, Switzerland
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3 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Eiger plans on hold for 24 hours. Waiting for the snow to burn off a bit. Instead we traversed the Monch, via a verglas encrusted SW ridge.

Now resting before tomorrow’s early start for the Eiger south ridge.

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Our #MontBlanc team were successful on the Grand Paradiso yesterday. Currently on route back to Chamonix.

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#climbing_is_my_passion @ Mönchsjochhütte
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Some new (sunny) photos added to the Aiguille de l'Index route page. ... See MoreSee Less

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