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SE Ridge – Weissmies PD

Route:

SE Ridge – Weissmies - Saas Fee – Switzerland

Category:

Mountaineering

Route description:

A brilliant and varied traverse of the 4000m Weissmies. A remote feeling and superb views of the surrounding 4000m Swiss peaks.

From the Almageller refuge an easy walk leads to steepening snow slopes which in turn lead to a blocky scramble.

After the rock finishes a slender snow arete leads on to the summit. Rather than reversing the route it is normal to descend the glacial slopes on the NW side of the mountain down to the lift system at Hohsaas.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate – A long approach to the Almageller refuge from Saas Grund. Some good crampon skills for the snow slopes required.

Length (in metres):

1120m from the Almageller refuge

Time/duration:

2 days

Starting point/base:

Saas Grund

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

June – September. A very reliable route conditions wise.

Links/ featured courses:

Comments/notes:

The NW flank is a non technical approach to the peak, using the lift system at Hohsaas, but with crevasse and serac danger.

Descending this route is more preferable.

A night at the Weismies hut after this route means you could climb the Lagginhorn or one of the other peaks in the area the following day, making a great three day trip.

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