Stereo-typical British Alpinists? Safe and slow? Probably lots of pitching, probably lots of dangling rack, as the euro’s cruise past with a non-existent amount of gear, tiny rucksacks and euro-fluro bright clothing.
That’s what Will, Simon and I agreed on day 1. I had two days to whip these (semi-experienced) boys into Alpine cruise mode – light and fast. And safe.
I affected a sergeant-major’s demeanor (or tried to) and bellowed encouragement: “Stop faffing, put that rack away, move quicker, slow down, put more gear in, you call that a safe belay you scum???”
I seemed to be contradicting myself.
Maybe I needed to slow down too. Perhaps a more mellow, primary school teacher approach would be better. “Darlings, it’s all about judgment don’t you know. Lace the gear in when it’s tricky, move together when it’s not. And stop using loose blocks for direct belays, you *^!** ”
That was better. We were smashing along now, and I wasn’t in fear of my life anymore. Mission accomplished.
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