Getting back into trad climbing can be a tricky business after a long winter, the frustration of not being able to get up your “warm up” and generally feeling weak/wobbly/scared on the first few routes.
I think some good millage on the bouldering circuits, with a few pumpy routes on the climbing wall is a good start. Then a few easy trad leads followed by jumping onto a fairly tricky route that you’ve done before and not worrying about whether you make it up “cleanly” or not.
That was the plan for my Monday evening climbing session with nick at Chudleigh. It was fairly cold (baltic up on the moor) so the sheltered crag of Chudleigh was the first choice.
Nick was going to try Oesophagus, a classic E1 with a steep, polished jamming crack followed by a rest and a wall above. The first attempt saw some good gear going in the crack and some good progress before a foot popped off and nick was hanging on the rope, quite a few feet below the crack!
After a few minutes nick was back on the climb and despite a heart stopping moment when the foot popped again he was soon on the easier section above and clipping the belay.
We had about an hour of daylight left so we legged it along the crag for my climb. I wanted a bit of a battle and decided to have a go at the best E4 at Chudleigh “Black Death”.
It was a fight, but having climbed it several times before I knew where the gear was and some of the holds which always helps. Just as I was getting through the crux section a couple of friends appeared at the top of a neighbouring routes and I tried my best to have a conversation whilst appearing relaxed, rather than giving into the rising forearm pump and grabbing for holds!
All in all a great evening, and looking forward to more over the coming weeks.
- Nick on the steep crack of Oesophagus, E1 5a at Chudleigh.
