Mont Blanc – Italian Pope (normal) Route PD+

A long but magnificent expedition on the wild side of Mont Blanc, more serious and committing than the Gouter route, the route starts from valley level and involves over 3000m of ascent.

With no lift access, this is a physically demanding way to ascend Mont Blanc. No crowds and with a wild and remote feeling, you will need good crampon skills for the airy snow aretes on the ridge before the Dome du Gouter.

Descending the Gouter route provides a fine traverse of the mountain.

From the high car park at the end of the Val Veny follow the road further up the valley to the refuge at the lac Miage.

From here some trails lead to the edge of the impressive lateral moraine of the Miage glacier which you then scramble down to get onto the rubble topped glacier itself. There are good markings to follow across the rocks. There aren’t any significant paths to follow, just a lot of Boulder hopping.
At the end of the rocks we rope up to cross the snow and a few crevasses before scrambling up via Ferrata style cables to the well positioned hut. All reminiscent of a Himalayan base camp approach rather than a classic hut walk!

The hut typically serves breakfast at 12:30am and steep snow leads out from the hut to traverse across to the glacier. Some simple snow plodding from here takes us up and into the main crevasse zone which must be crossed with care. This section becomes impassable later in the summer.

After this another steeper section leads off the glacier and onto the ridge and the “piton de Italia” itself. The ridge is extremely narrow and exposed in several sections, but never for too long. This section of ridge is climbed in the dark. Good snow conditions and light winds are essential for a safe ascent.

Towards the Dome du Gouter the ridge broadens, and we then join the Gouter route coming from France which takes us the last hour and a half to the summit.

Descent is either by the same Route, or via the Gouter into France and the Chamonix valley.

2000m from the valley floor to the Gonella Refuge.
1760m from the Gonella refuge to the summit.

Mid June to late July. Early season is normally best to ensure good snow cover on the Dome Glacier. The hut opens around the middle of June. There is a “winter” room available in the off season.