It was Nicks final day of climbing yesterday, and we were keen to head back over into the Loch Avon valley and climb on the Shelterstone.
Yet again it had snowed and froze overnight so our planned early departure was delayed by the Cairngorm Ski road being shut, so we queued along with all the other climbers waiting to drive up to the top car park. It was pretty busy, probably due to the A82 being shut keeping people away from the West Coast.
Despite a delay we walked into Sneachda and up the Goat track before heading in a big curve to the top of the Shelterstone. We left spare kit and a rucksack at the summit and then dropped down Castlegates gully meaning we could lead without a sack.
Nick at the top of the Goat Track
Sticil face was looking like it was in climbale condition and a route that we both wanted to do. It was certainly a classic climb, and in OK condition although to be honest it could do with more consolidation on the lower pitches as they were a little bold in their current state. The turf was mostly frozen, it could do with a freeze thaw cycle to make it more enjoyable.
The three main technical pitches were really good, with the crux ice pitch quite a bit steeper than it looked from below.
Leading the crux icey corner on Sticil Face
Easy but exposed ground on the traverse section
It gets grade V, 6 in the guidebooks. It might well have a little harder than that in places as we found it, especially on our ill advised direct start which turned into a thin mind game with only one decent runner in 50 meters.
We topped out just as it was getting dark, and the cold wind was picking up so we hurridly packed up and walked back along our tracks from the approach.
There was another team on the Shelterstone climbing Citadel who might have been in for a long night and a few teams climbing on Hells Lum but otherwise it was nice and quiet, unlike Sneachda which was looking busy as is usual.
There were a few teams just finishing in Sneachda as we walked through and one hardy team camping in the coire floor.
