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Aiguille d'Entreves, Italy - Courmayeur

Route:

Traverse – Aiguille d'Entreves - Chamonix

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

The traverse of the Aiguille du Entreves is Courmayeurs equivalent to the Cosmiques arete. Short, technical and good fun, although the Entreves doesn't finish quite as conveniently as the Cosmiques, you'll have to walk back to the lift station!

The route starts at the col du Entreves, an hour and a halves glacial walk from the skyway lift which starts in Courmayeur.

After an initial easy scramble, the ridge narrows and travels horizontally towards the summit tower. This section is very exposed and you can look down the south face at the village of Courmayeur almost 2000m below. The climbing is fairly straightforward despite the exposure, and the summit tower is soon reached, where one hard move (or a pull on gear) lands you on the summit.

The climbing isn't over though, as a series of down climbs or abseils must now be undertaken before more easy scrambling leads to the next snowy col, from where you can rejoin the ascent track and the skyway lift.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate - Good general mountaineering skills.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 3600m

300m ascent from Torino refuge

Time/duration:

1 day

4 – 5 hours from Torino refuge.

Starting point/base:

Helbronner lift/Torino refuge.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

June – October

Snow on the route makes it much harder. Look for dry conditions.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

Possible in a day using the SkyWay Lift, or as part of a number of climbs using the Torino Refuge as a base.

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5 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Awoke to a wild and blustery day at the Britannia refuge this morning. Plans were scrapped, extra coffees were drunk and we headed down.

Finished the day with some scrambling and summits on the Perron traverse above the Emosson Dam. A day salvaged.

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Fresh snow but summer temperatures on the 4000m Allalinhorn today.

It was nice to follow a track this morning. Tomorrow’s trail breaking is going to be a workout 😬

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1 week ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Back up in the #alpine again and enjoying the autumn weather and conditions.

Lots of rime ice on the Marbrees traverse this morning. Scottish.

Off to tick off a couple of Swiss 4000m peaks this weekend.

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Perfect autumn climbing weather. Photo: @allyswinton of Sara scrambling across the Perrons yesterday. The classic rocky ridge line above the Emosson reservoir.

It’s been a mixed few days weather wise, and the original plan of climbing the Grand Paradiso was out on hold. Flexibility is the key to a happy trip :)

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We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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