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Aiguille de L'Index - AD, 4C

Route:

Aiguille de l'Index, South Arete – Chamonix

Category:

Alpine Rock Climbing

Route Gallery:

Route description:

One of the most popular routes in the Aiguille Rouge, this striking little summit is well viewed from the lift of the same name. After a walk up the scree and an easy scramble to get across the large grassy ledge, we gear up just before reaching the south arete.

The route itself leads up the buttress just to the right of the edge with the crux pitch right at the start. The rock is great to climb on, but a bit polished these days, a sure sign of a very popular route!

There's a mix of fixed gear and belays, but some cams and perhaps a wire or two is useful. The climbing is exposed in places, but nothing outrageous. After five or six pitches the summit is reached, which is a fine viewpoint for the entire Mont Blanc range.

From the summit, there's a mixture of down-scrambling and abseiling with a couple of options during the descent. The lift is soon reached, or there's some other climbing nearby....

Required experience/skill level:

 

Intermediate. The climbing is exposed in places and the abseils too. A warm up on one of the Chamonix valley crags beforehand is a better idea!

Length (in metres):

Difficulties are around 150m in length.

Time/duration:

3 - 4 hours, plus lift time

Starting point/base:

Chamonix - Les Praz and the Flegere lift

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

The route is south facing, so comes into condition quickly, although snow can remain in the couloir for the approach and descent. Normally, Mid June - Mid September.

Links/ featured courses:

Comments/notes:

A great adventure, but on a sunny day mid season it can get pretty busy. Plenty of other options nearby if this is the case.

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5 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Awoke to a wild and blustery day at the Britannia refuge this morning. Plans were scrapped, extra coffees were drunk and we headed down.

Finished the day with some scrambling and summits on the Perron traverse above the Emosson Dam. A day salvaged.

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Fresh snow but summer temperatures on the 4000m Allalinhorn today.

It was nice to follow a track this morning. Tomorrow’s trail breaking is going to be a workout 😬

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1 week ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Back up in the #alpine again and enjoying the autumn weather and conditions.

Lots of rime ice on the Marbrees traverse this morning. Scottish.

Off to tick off a couple of Swiss 4000m peaks this weekend.

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Perfect autumn climbing weather. Photo: @allyswinton of Sara scrambling across the Perrons yesterday. The classic rocky ridge line above the Emosson reservoir.

It’s been a mixed few days weather wise, and the original plan of climbing the Grand Paradiso was out on hold. Flexibility is the key to a happy trip :)

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We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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