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East Ridge – Breithorn AD-, III-

Route:

East Ridge – Breithorn - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

With such easy access from Zermatt using the lift system, the Breithorn is one of the most popular 4000m peaks of the Alps. The Breithorn, or “broad peak", stretches over two kilometres across the Zermatt skyline.

 Although the normal route is an easy snow plod from the lift, the East ridge, or half traverse, is a brilliant mixed route with the bonus of a quick descent back to the lift station. After a glaciated approach, an often icy slope leading to the col, the ridge rises in a series of rock steps, which are mostly scrambling or short pitches of grade III climbing.

Lot's of moving together, short roping and short pitching up good solid rock. The ridge then narrows into a fine snow arete which leads on to the summit. The nature and the altitude of the route means it is a great “training” climb for longer or more committing mountains, such as the Matterhorn's Hornli ridge.

Required experience/skill level:

Intermediate. Good general mountaineering skills.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4164m

520m ascent from Klien Matterhorn lift

Time/duration:

4 - 5 hours in ascent, 1.5 hours descent.

Starting point/base:

Klien Matterhorn lift accessed from Zermatt, or Guide d'Ayas refugio.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

Normally Mid June to end of September, but conditions vary every season.

Snow on the route makes it much harder. Look for dry conditions.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

Lots of other ascents in this area, including the snow twins Castor and Pollux.

> Return to Route Index

Last lift accessed ski tour of (my) season from Contamines yesterday.

Plenty of folk out enjoying the good conditions on the classics.

A weeks holiday away from the mountains now. Rest time before the @trofeomezzalama race at the end of the month.

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#britishmountainguides
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6 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

A big couple of days on the wild Miage glacier taking advantage of the great spring ski touring conditions.

Up Mont Tondu and then today over the Miage after a night in the Conscrits refuge. Which served a vegetarian meal to the whole hut last night, meaning it’s now my favourite refuge. 🌱

Over 3500m of ascent and some very good snow on the way down.

#verticalfrontiers #earnyourturns
#chamonix #contamines
#britishmountainguides
#scarpa_uk #arcteryx @ Chamonix, France
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Off the beaten track in the Aiguille Rouge today.

#verticalfrontiers #earnyourturns
#skimo #skitouring
#britishmountainguides
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Updated the Iran Ski Touring Photo Gallery today. Video on it's way.... #ski
buff.ly/2U5iPBP
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Well the express Haute Route didn’t exactly go to Plan. A meter of fresh snow at altitude put paid to that.

We headed south and spent a great couple of days around the Mont Thabor area. Nice hut, quiet and loads of good skiing. Despite the cloud.

#verticalfrontiers #skimo
#earnyourturns
#britishmountainguides
#arcteryx #scarpa
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+33 (0) 787371926

We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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