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Chere Couloir – Mont Blanc du Tacul - D

Route:

Chere Couloir -  Aiguille du Midi - Chamonix - France

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

Another very popular Chamonix classic. An easily accessible ice route not far from the Aiguille du Midi lift station.
The difficulties are roughly equivalent to Scottish grade IV, but this very much depends on the condition of the ice, which can be very hard in dry conditions.
After an lower angled pitch over the bergshrund, the route follows the obvious couloir in four or five pitches, with belays (some bolted) on the right hand wall. Above, the angle eases and one could climb onwards to the summit of the Tacul, or abseil back down the route (being careful of parties climbing below).

Required experience/skill level:

Advanced – previous climbing multi pitch experience, and ice climbing required.

Length (in metres):

200m

Time/duration:

1 day

Starting point/base:

Chamonix

Aiguille du midi Cable car station

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

February – October. A very reliable route conditions wise.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

This is one of Chamonix's most popular routes, and it can get very busy. Other options exist on the Triangle du Tacul, and sometimes it's worth staying at the Cosmiques refuge the night before to ensure an early start.

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5 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Awoke to a wild and blustery day at the Britannia refuge this morning. Plans were scrapped, extra coffees were drunk and we headed down.

Finished the day with some scrambling and summits on the Perron traverse above the Emosson Dam. A day salvaged.

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Fresh snow but summer temperatures on the 4000m Allalinhorn today.

It was nice to follow a track this morning. Tomorrow’s trail breaking is going to be a workout 😬

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1 week ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Back up in the #alpine again and enjoying the autumn weather and conditions.

Lots of rime ice on the Marbrees traverse this morning. Scottish.

Off to tick off a couple of Swiss 4000m peaks this weekend.

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Perfect autumn climbing weather. Photo: @allyswinton of Sara scrambling across the Perrons yesterday. The classic rocky ridge line above the Emosson reservoir.

It’s been a mixed few days weather wise, and the original plan of climbing the Grand Paradiso was out on hold. Flexibility is the key to a happy trip :)

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