+33 (0) 787371926

0 Persons

Frendo Spur D+ / III

Route:

Frendo Spur -  Aiguille du Midi - Chamonix - France

Category:

Mountaineering

Route Gallery:

Route description:

An eye catching and sought after route featuring solid rock climbing and a soaring snow arete. The line catches the sun early and this can soften the snow arete into unclimbable slush. Leave early, or bivouac at the start of the snow arete (good ledges).

Much of the lower ridge can be climbed moving together and with short pitches, an efficient approach will save a lot of time on this big route.

From the Plan d'Aiguille refuge or lift station, cross the Glacier des Pelerins to the foot of the spur in one hour.

A left to right slanting ramp leads towards the crest of the buttress. Just before the crest head left and continue scrambling past short steps (III) and easier sections climbing rightwards towards a large flake (4c) to the crest of the ridge.

Follow this easier open ground for several hundred meters. When the buttress suddenly steepens, traverse a few meters left and climb on the left of the ridge to an exposed col.

After the crux corner crack (5b, pegs), climb the sustained ground (III & IV well protected) on the left of the spur.

More short steps and scrambling brings you soon to the base of the snow ridge. This elegant arete gradually steepens towards the final rocky buttress. This is usually skirted on the right or left, sometimes producing a section of steeper ice (<65*).

Follow the ridge to the Aiguille du Midi lift station.

Required experience/skill level:

Advanced – good rock climbing and alpine ice experience required.

Length (in metres):

1200m

Time/duration:

1 – 2 days

Starting point/base:

Chamonix

from Plan d'Aiguille: middle station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car

Maximum guide ratio:

1:1

Normal season:

July - September

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

The line catches the sun early and this can soften the snow arete into unclimbable slush. Leave early, or bivouac at the start of the snow arete (good ledges).
Much of the lower ridge can be climbed moving together and with short pitches, an efficient approach will save a lot of time on this big route.

> Return to Route Index

  • No go on Mont Blanc
    Sometimes the weather really isn’t that helpful. After a promising start to our early June Mont […]
  • Iran Ski Touring Video
    Following our successful Iran ski touring trip in March, it’s great to have our edited video […]

Long summer days in the mountains 😄 Sunrise on the Trient plateau on the summer solstise 2019. #chamonix #mountains ... See MoreSee Less

View on Facebook

Mixed weather these past couple of weeks. But some good climbs done despite the tricky forecasts. Blog and photos from our June Mont Blanc trip on the website:
buff.ly/2KyqloG
... See MoreSee Less

View on Facebook

Prime conditions on the Grand Paradiso. Full moon and well frozen snow after a clear night.

Six out of eight of our team to the top, and now ready for a Mont Blanc attempt over the next few days.

#verticalfrontiers #guide
With @claphamski and @expedition_wise
#montblanc #britishmountainguides
... See MoreSee Less

View on Facebook

Always satisfying to hear of our clients independant adventures after an alpine training course. Tom and Aoife on the summit of the Grand Paradiso.
#alpine #guide
... See MoreSee Less

View on Facebook

Leaving the Rifugio Torino in the morning light.
Mountain photography with Simon Winnall around #chamonix
... See MoreSee Less

View on Facebook

Two places left on our Italian Monta Rosa trip in the first week of July.
Come and tick off a few 4000m peaks with us!
Details & booking here: buff.ly/2EDFzEF
... See MoreSee Less

View on Facebook
+33 (0) 787371926

We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

Get in touch...

Your Name

Your Email

Your Message

captcha