- Useful Info
Normal Route – Nadelhorn - Zermatt
Mountaineering - Ski Touring
The twelve highest mountain in the alps presents a variety of routes including the famous AD traverse of the Nadelgrat, which takes in four 4000m peaks along it's ridge.
The normal route from either the Mischabel hut or Bordier hut offers a pleasing snow arete of more modest difficulty, PD standard. From the Bordier hut the route is longer, but has some excellent views, is quieter and weaves through some interesting glacial terrain.
Once reaching the windjoch (the col separating the two routes) the route follows the aesthetic snow arete leading all the way to the summit. This varies in difficulty depending on conditions, ice making it more technical.
Our three day trip typically starts in Chamonix, climbing from one of the lifts on day one, when we practice personal climbing skills as well as refreshing crevasse rescue.
Day 2 takes us to Switzerland and an ascent to the hut before climbing the Nadelhorn on day 3.
Required experience/skill level:
Intermediate. A good level of fitness is important for the climb to the hut and then the peak itself. Some solid experience of using crampons on both snow and ice important.
On our three day trip, the first day is usually spend climbing and training around Chamonix where you will have a chance to refresh your crampon skills as well as crevasse rescue.
Length (in metres):
1000m ascent from Mischabel hut, 1450m from the Bordier.
2 days (including hut approach)
To Bordier hut, 4 hours. A classic alpine hut walk.
To Mischabel hut, with the lift 3.5hours. A very steep walk.
From Bordier hut - 4.5 - 5 hours in ascent, 3.5 hours descent.
From Mischabel Hut - 3 - 4 hours ascent, 2 hours descent.
Hornli Hut, accessed from Zermatt using lift system and two hour approach walk.
Maximum guide ratio:
Normally Mid June to Mid September, but conditions vary every season.
Links/ featured courses: