What a change in the weather this week compared to last. So good in fact that our Mont Blanc trip this week passed without the drama and changing of plans that has characterized this season so far. What pleasure to have a full week of guiding go to plan and without a hitch!

In what will become our standard five-day programme for next season, we spent the first two days around the Skyway lift and the Torino hut. Although this area lacks an easy high altitude summit like the Grand Paradiso there are numerous small summits and a variety of terrain to practice with. With a morning lift and an overnight at the Torino you end up spending a lot of time above 3400 m which is great preparation for Mont Blanc.

There were teams out battling the high winds during those first two days on routes such as the Entreves, Marbrees, Dent du Geant and the rock climbs in the area. Good conditions reported on the Kuffner arete and Diable ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul too. Hoping to get on those with our technical September trips, all being well.

For us, we drove back through the tunnel into France and on day 3 headed up to the Tete Rousse refuge. Looking up at the grand couloir, it was amazing to see how dry it was in contrast to the snow Erik and I found there a week ago. Things change so fast in the summer heat!

Mont Blanc climb

Activity in the couloir seemed to be pretty minimal for the time of year and as we had a night in the Gouter hut following the summit we had no major rush to set off super early. The 4.30am breakfast was perfect, and we crossed the couloir in the dark with half the team unaware that we had already crossed it!

Halfway up the ridge leading to the Gouter the rocks started falling into the couloir and there was shouting from above. It became apparent as we gained height that the cause of the rockfall was a team seriously off route on the left of the couloir, apparently trying to climb the neighbouring arête. With a lot of people shouting (also to warn climbers crossing below of the rockfall) they turned around and gingerly climbed back across the rubble strewn bed of the couloir and to the correct route, where they were met by the PGHM (mountain police) who happened to be climbing there as well.

It turned out they were wearing trainers and were generally ill-equipped. I didn’t hear the exact words, but they did descend from there. Probably for the best.

After that, it was plain sailing for us. A stop in the Gouter for a water top up and on towards the top. It was the first bigger alpine mountain for everyone, and towards the physical limit for some. Altitude is hard and everyone had to dig a little deep towards the summit.

The weather and conditions however were perfect. Light winds and warm. The summit was quiet enough, so we took plenty of photos and enjoyed the view.

After a careful descent and some boot adjustment due to bashed toes, we arrived at the Gouter refuge at 2.30. A long day as expected. A night at the refuge was welcome, with a climb back down the following morning after a leisurely 7 am breakfast.

 

The view of Mont Blanc as seen during our acclimatisation and training days from the Torino refuge.

The final few steps to the summit of Mont Blanc for Catilin and Alex.

Michael, Jonathan and Alex on the summit of Mont Blanc.