Thursday 8th October 2020
Is that the end of the summer 2020 season here in Chamonix? The temps have stayed cool since the first snow fall two weeks ago and the snow has since been topped up at mid and high altitude. With more fresh snow and even colder weather due over the weekend and next week we have postponed next weeks mountaineering plans.
Although there is still plenty of oppertunity for rock climbing and training in the valley floor climbing the high summits seems unrealistic in the short term. Quite a sudden switch from hot summer to winter this year!
Over the past few days I climbed with Kim around the valley making the best of conditions. We couldn’t get up high but had a good adventure above Montenvers on a rocky ridge as well as ticking off some good rock climbs in the valley.
Soon we will be out on skis and the winter 2020/21 blog will start. But before that I hope to get a few blogs written from this summer. Kit, training and climbs etc. Bookings already coming in for next season with private guiding as well as our scheduled trips. Get in touch if you want some ideas or to get something pencilled in.
Deep snow and a lot of trail braking above Montenvers. Although the snow was generally around shin to knee deep there were lots of deep pockets like this one. Good training!
Climbing on the Fretes de Charmoz above Montenvers. We got turned around by conditions at the first tricky tower, mainly as we were playing it cautious in the weather. A really good adventure though and the initial scrambling was good fun and “Scottish” in nature.
Big boot climbing at Les Gaillands. The cracks were seeping with water but still plenty to climb and lots of people were out when the sun arrived.
The rock was soaking wet at servoz on all but the steeper climbs but we got a good route done before climbing the easier routes for ropework practice. Here Kim is abseiling off with Italian hitches with prussik backup, as I stole his belay plate 🙂
Thursday 1st October 2020
Autumn has arrived in the Alps (and Europe) over the past couple of weeks. A drop in temperature and some significant snowfall to low levels in the valley. Quite a contrast to a week ago when we were climbing in T-shirts. People have even been skiing (ski touring) from Le Tour this past weekend. Although I guess there were quite a few rocks to dodge on the lower slopes.
The snow coincided with a break in work and the annual local trail race in the valley. Great to be racing again this summer despite not being able to run the normal course due to the fresh snow (40cm+ at 2000m).
This coming week we are back in the hills climbing some mountain routes in the fresh snow. Autumn can be a great time to be climbing and we do have some availability over the coming weeks so give us a shout if you want some ideas.
The huts (including Mont Blanc) have shut in the valley now although the winter rooms remain open. The Aiguille du Midi closes at the end of October, you can see the live info here.
Looking towards Les Houches and the Aiguille du Gouter (Mont Blanc normal route) from lower in the Chamonix valley.
Shamelessly reposting from the trail des aiguille rouge facebook page. A stunning sunrise over the valley on Sunday 27th September during the race. Running amougst the snow 🙂
Tuesday 22nd September 2020
All change on the weather front in the alps (and Europe generally). Autumn is on the way and we’ve had an unsettled few days with a whole bunch of snow forecast for this coming weekend in Chamonix.
Justine and I had two final days and we wanted a good long day out so on Monday we headed for the traverse of the Perrons above the Emosson dam. It was pretty soggy in places after the rain overnight but the weather held for us, helped by a 6am start from Chamonix to beat the afternoon storms.
First time up there this season for me. It’s such a great route with lots of varied climbing. Always a long day though, we were 8 hours car to car which seems about right for that route. Good training for long AD Swiss ridges. Reminded me of the south ridge on the Lagginhorn that I guided Andy on a couple of weeks ago.
Last night it rained again and this morning there was fresh snow on the high peaks. The Aiguille du Midi had delayed opening and it was certainly “atmospheric” by the time we got up there.
The Cosmiques arete was the obvious choice and it’s always a good adventure, especially after some fresh snow. We started in crampons and then went without after a while. No easy solution. The route is really dry though, no snow base left at all.
It’ll be good to have a bunch of fresh snow on Saturday and then it’ll settle down again. We have some availability through October so give us a shout if you want to climb here in Chamonix or Italy/Switzerland. The Mont Blanc huts shut on the 12th October this year so that’s an option too.
Moody skies on Monday whilst on the traverse of the Perrons. Great big route training.
Justine abseiling off the middle tower. Much nicer than getting lowered all the time!
Checking out the exposure. Pretty wild in places. Bloody knee not essential, but it does look more hardcore.
A wintery looking Cosmiques arete. Not surprisingly, it was quiet.
Although the weather was windless and warm the gloves got a soaking by the snow. By the time we got to the crux pitch the fingers were freezing.
The final chimney on the Cosmiques Arete. Last time I climbed this this was an icy groove all the way. Quite the contrast now.
Friday 18th September 2020
End of the season on the Grand Paradiso?
Just back in Chamonix after a two day trip to the Grand Paradiso over in Italy. After climbing the Aiguille Marbrees on Thursday morning Justine and I headed up to the Emmanuele refuge for an early start this morning on the Grand Paradiso.
With the Chabod hut finished for the season and the glacier increasingly dry it does feel like the season is over there. The Emmanuele also shuts this weekend and actually the state of the normal route is so bad we had to make a traverse onto the Chabod side to access the glacier there. It’s actually a nice way to climb the peak although does involve an awful lot of scree and boulder field walking.
Justine was super quick as predicted despite the rough ground and we enjoyed a quiet summit with one other French team before making the descent back to the hut for coffee and cake.
Now we have to decide what to do next. Mont Blanc sounds like it is experiencing some pretty bad rock fall, so a change of plan might be in order….
On the traverse of the Marbrees with the Dent du Geant in the background. Pretty good conditions around the Torino area at the moment.
Some chunky crevasses on the Grand Paradiso, Friday 18th September 2020.
Summit of the Grand Paradiso. Madonna with additional flowers!
Wednesday 16th September 2020
The weather across the alps was forecast to be perfect on Monday and Tuesday, and so it seemed that maybe Tom and Aoife from earlier in the month could climb the Eiger after all.
The only issue was the Mittalegi hut closing on the Sunday night and the reduced train schedule to the Jungfraujoch. But having guided the route “in a day” before and with such a good weather forecast a late finish wasn’t going to be a problem, we were keen for an adventure.
So a 3.15am alarm on Monday morning followed by a Chamonix pickup an hour later saw us on the road. At least the traffic was light that time fo the morning and we made good progress to Grindelwald. Everyone got a snooze whilst I drove with headphones on a mix of music and podcasts kept me going.
Everything was pretty smooth through Grindelwald, we were on the first train of the day and were joined by two other teams gearing up in the tunnel for the Eiger. The two lads up front were off very fast and with us moving as a four (with Lou Reynolds guiding with me) it was a bit slower. But we still arrived at the hut after an hour and forty. It had already shut and the keeper had been helicopteredto town, so no second breakfast for us.
That was probably a good thing though, we were soon moving again and along the climb proper. The ridge was in good condition, mostly dry with some snow patches just on the north facing side of the ridge. These we could walk along without crampons on the tracks that were grippy and short lived.
Although it is a bit slower staying close as two teams it was good fun and there was lots of opportunity to take photos of each other. It was also a nice time of day to be climbing, in daylight and warm weather. Just a baselayer and softshell worn all the way to the summit.
Five and a half hours after leaving the train station we were on the top and everyone could see what I’d been repeatedly saying about the Eiger, the summit is definitely only halfway! The ridge drops in a series of abseils and scrambles to the Eigerjoch (col) and then up again and across the ridge on the far side, still a long way to go.
We kept plugging away though with Tom and Aoife on good form being fit and acclimatised from three weeks in the alps already. I managed to get through to the hut on the phone to tell them we would be late for dinner but in the end we rocked up whilst they were still serving.
As we relaxed into the hut and waited for drinks and dinner the fatigue hit everyone and you could appreciate how hungry and thirsty we were. It had been a little under ten hours after leaving the train. A superb day on one of my favorite alpine routes. Time for beer, dinner and bed!
A relaxed seven o’clock breakfast the next day and a walk out to the train was the only thing on the schedule before the drive home.
The Mittalegi ridge as seen from the hut.
Tom and Lou on the abseil from the gendarme on the ascent of the Mittalegi. Photo taken from the long fixed rope section that follows immediatly afterwards.
Starting the final snow aretes on the Mittalegi. Ben Bradford & Aoife climbing.
Another photo of that snow arete. Taken with thanks by the mountain guide just in front of us that day. Technically easy but one wrong step would land you in Grindelwald…. eyes looking down rather than at the view!
Friday 11th September 2020
It’s been so long and so much has happened since the last blog update it’s hard to know where to start. It has been a busy few weeks and part of the reason for the lack of blog updates is that we have been guiding in Switzerland on back to back trips and the laptop has been at home in Chamonix!
Conditions have been good with stable weather although we did have quite a bit of fresh snow over the weekend of 29th August which put the high mountain rocky routes out of condition for a week or so.
We have been mostly climbing out of Saas Fee. Some totally brilliant climbing some of which deserve a blog of thier own. Especially the south ridge of the Stockhorn. For the moment, the photos and captions can tell the story.
Looking ahead we have various trips over the coming weeks including Mont Blanc. The Mont Blanc huts have extended their season so if you are keen for an ascent get in touch.
The exposed wire bridge onthe excellent Jegihorn Via Ferrata. Easily accessed from Saas grund in a day.
Nearing the top of the Lagginhorn south ridge. We managed this fun AD route from first to last lift. Just. Ten minutes to spare!
Gareth leading the crux section of the Alphubel’s Rotgrat ridge. A wild and imposing headwall after having already spent sveral hours on the lower ridge. A superb adventure and a long day.
Looking back on the ridge with the Zermatt peaks in the background.
Ben and Joe out to check the conditions from the Allmagellger hut. The boys waited out the storm (with guide Ally) for a day before the skies cleared and they forged a track to the summit. A proper adventure!
Summit of the Weissmeis a day later with Lou, Tom and Aoife on an acclimitisation “warm up”
A 12 pitch rock climbon the Jegihorn got Tom, Aoife, Lou and I well warmed up and ready for harder climbing on the Stockhorn.
The South Ridge of the Stockhorn as seen from the approach walk.
The hut has locked box full of goodies for those that have the key. A beer in the sunshine after the long walk was a bit of a treat.
One of the crux pitches on the 5th tower. South ridge Stockhorn.
Andy pulling on the chains through the steep section. Pollux above Zermatt.
Dawn on the Durfourpsitze normal route from the Monta Rosa hut. A great peak and scramble but a long slog up the galcier from the hut.
Tuesday 11th August 2020
The heatwave continues with an associated melting of the mountains. As predicted on our Sunday 2nd August blog post (below) the normal route on Mont Blanc is experiencing increased rockfall which is often of large volume and unpredictable.
We will avoid the route for the next few weeks until a period of cooler weather. September and into October is normally a good bet. We have a few teams going that month and the odd space on those, so get in touch if you want more info.
It’s busy here in Chamonix again. Another two weeks and it’ll calm down again.
Here are some photos from a week ago on the Cosmiques arete just after the last snow fall. Good adventurous mixed conditions.
Jonny leading the lower ridge. More like spring/autumn conditions.
The crux wall.
Getting into the upper chimneys not far from the top.
Friday 7th August 2020
A stunning few days of stable weather here in the alps after a good couple of wet days that put a lot of snow down on the high mountains and plenty of rain in the valley.
We had a decision to make as to what to climb. There was a lot of snow up high but it should burn off in the good weather quickly… or maybe not. In the end we decided to drop the grade from the planned Dent Blanche and head over to the Weissmies for a two day hit.
The south ridge is a great route with a very welcoming and comfortable Almageller hut to be based from. We walked into the hut briskly and were there with more than enough time for an afternoon climb. We wanted an alpine style rock route and the Dri Hornli which sits behind the hut was perfect, especially as I hadn’t climbed it before despite many trips to the Weissmies.
The rock was immaculate and the climbing interesting. We had a speedy ascent making good time and managed to sneak through a big group who we caught up halfway along the ridge. We were back on the terrace drinking a beer by late afternoon 🙂
The next mornings 4am alarm call felt pretty early, mainly due to all the snoring during the night in the guides room. Should’ve packed my ear plugs! A little breakfast and then we were walking up the boulder field and moraine ridges towards the Weissmies with a long line of head torches behind us.
The south ridge was pure type 1 fun. Great weather and steady scrambling all the way to the summit. We descended the north side of the mountain to make a traverse and take advantage of the lift system to descend to the valley, saving additional blisters for Amy’s feet too.
The heatwave continues here in the alps so conditions on the snowy routes are changing quickly. Particular care is needed for the glacier snow bridges in the afternoon.
We have various oppertunities for group and private guiding going through August so give us a shout if you want some trip ideas.
Gareth leading up the first steeper section on the first tower.
Amy on the Dri Hornli traverse with the Saas/Zermatt skyline behind. From left to right: Monta Rosa, Nordend, Rimpfischhorn, Strahlhorn, Alalinhorn, Alphubel, Taschhorn, Dom. What a view!
Dawn light on the lower ridge of the Weissmis.
Gareth, Amy and Kit on the final summit ridge of the Weissmies. I went ahead to snap the photos 🙂
A ladder installed on the Weissmies normal route on the north side. This route changes every year and as the season progresses the track shifts. This year the crux was this crevasse area and luckily the ladder was flown in the afternoon before we made the traverse.
Gareth and Kit waiting their turn to descend the ladder. Summit ridge in the background.
One of the many horror crevasses on the Weissmies normal route. A place to descend rather than climb I think. Much quicker that way.
Sunday 2nd August 2020
A change of weather here in the Chamonix valley. We’ve lost a little of the heat and have had some proper alpine style thunderstorms. Quite a relief really.
Timmy and David timed their rock climbing well for yesterday, climbing at Brevant under clear skies. It would have been a different story today. We had teams out on the SkyWay lift from Courmayeur too, traversing the classic Entreves.
For us, Mont Blanc is paused for a little while. Rain to high altitude and warm temperetures are not a good combination. Better to wait for a cooler period now. We are due back up there in September which should be better.
Looking across the cirque maudit towards the Grand Capucin and Mont Blanc du Tacul.
Rock Climbing at Brevant above the Chamonix valley.
Solid rock, loads of climbs and the best back drop ever? La Somone at Brevant.
Saturday 1st August 2020
Congratulations to Oliver who stood on the summit of Mont Blanc yesterday morning after making the long ascent from the Tete Rousse hut.
It had rained overnight and the high temperetures continued during the day. During their descent Oliver and Andy witnessed a large rockfall in the grand couloir. It doesn’t sound like anyone was hurt, but it certainly sounded very large and scary.
Another rockfall reported this morning. All the guides turned around from the route.
Traditionally we don’t climb on Mont Blanc during August, but it does all depend on the conditions and weather. Hoping for cooler weather again this coming week.
Looking up at the Dome du Gouter from the Aiguille Gouter (near the refuge)
Building clouds on the Gouter route, looking down at the Bosses arete.
Thursday 30th July 2020
Continuing good conditions here in Chamonix. We’ve had a few teams on alpine training courses this week, learning and practicing skills so as to climb independatly in the future.
Lots of time on the traverse of the Marbrees, Entreves, Cosmiques arete and rock climbing in the Aiguille Rouge. We are due some very hot weather over the next few days which will degrade the snow on some routes but it’s the first real heat wave of the summer and so we hope that it won’t affect the rockfall as it would normally at this time of year.
Oliver is off up Mont Blanc today and tomorrow so we wish him and our guide Andy good luck for that. the forecast is warm and sunny so they should smash it!
August is looking more and more busy, so if you’d like to share some guiding and climbing with others get in touch as we’d like to put some groups together.
Across the Vallee Blanche for some good glacier travel training.
The first downclimb / lower on the Cosmiques arete.
The classic Chamonix photo! Great conditions up high for this type of route. We raced a storm all morning which never really arrived. It made us move well though!
Monday 27th July 2020
Another busy week in the mountains when I could have had multiple updates for this blog, but was either in huts or preparing for the next trip at home. I have been trying to update the social media stuff during the week so you can check out the feeds on your preferred platform: Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
This continues to be our quietest summer for a while with the best conditions in a while too! For those that can climb it is turning into a memorable season with many snow routes remaining in good condition and fair weather giving the opportunity to climb some long and committing routes.
This past week we have been over on the Italian side of the Monta Rosa area climbing Castor after the long approach to the Guide d’Ayas refuge. Nice huts and great classic alpinism.
The weekend just finished was spent with Oliver in preparation for a single push attempt on Mont Blanc. After climbing the Marbrees we got ourselves to the Chabod hut and had a speedy round trip on the Grand Paradiso. That rounded off a heavy week for me, with some early starts and a lot of vertical meters climbed, including extra for the centurion running challenge where I managed over 10,000m for the week.
This week we have a couple of groups out practicing some alpine skills as well as Oliver’s Mont Blanc trip. Plenty more coming up in August so do give us a shout if you’d like to join a group or arrange some private guiding.
The final summit ridge of Castor.
Oliver joined me for a training hike/run above Chamonix towards the Aiguille du Midi. A good way to get to know someone!
Just below the summit of the Aiguille Marbrees.
During the descent from the Grand Paradiso summit. Teams below on the final glacial section before the scramble.
Monday 20th July 2020
We have a Monte Viso trip starting today but thought I’d write a little update on what it’s like on the lifts and the huts with Covid social distancing.
All lifts in Zermatt and Chamonix require facemasks throughout the journey and have the usual hand disinfectant available. The cabins apparently get cleaned multiple times daily. The Chamonix lifts are running at a lower capacity than normal too.
The huts vary a lot. All are operating differently than normal. The Gouter hut on Mont Blanc for instance requires masks and a sleeping liner (which is normal). They issue a disposable mattress cover upon arrival which each person needs to carry down to the valley. No pillows are provided but the duvets are. Meal times are staggered so there are less people on the tables.
A lot of huts (Italian huts especially) are not providing hut footwear and some are not providing blankets or duvets.
It is certainly pretty hard to be socially distant in the huts, but they are doing a reasonable job in my opinion of following rules whilst still having a functional hut. We are running many trips this year for customers who prefer not to stay in huts at the moment. Often that means staying in the valley and doing day trips from the lifts or valley bases. Last weeks Mont Blanc (see below) only had a single hut night for the summit.
Sunday 19th July 2020
A fantastic week of mountaineering in the alps with some great climbs from Zermatt and two groups on Mont Blanc. Conditions continue to be excellent and many snow routes are the best we’ve seen them (for the time of year) in a while.
It was nice to be back in Zermatt for some classic alpinism from the Klien Matterhorn lift. We climbed the Breithorn on the first day ticking off the central and western summits. Top practice for airy ridge walking! Then Pollux on day 2, which was a lot quieter and a lot longer. The walk back uphill to the lift station is a bit of a slog but the glacier is in good condition and the crevasses well bridged.
Meanwhile Ally was guiding Ausra on the Trois Monts route on Mont Blanc. This is quite technical this season and is generally beng guided 1:1. The weather (and Ally’s new camera phone) produced some stunning photos. They did well to climb Mont Blanc in four days total with two nights in the Cosmiques and a final one in the Gouter hut.
After a night in town Ally was back up the hill with us for what turned out to be a very memorable Mont Blanc. We went direct to the Gouter hut from the first train and made good time, trying to cross the grand couloir before the heat of the day started any rockfall. It was quiet in the couloir until our second team crossed whereby they had quite a close encounter with a rock. Hard to tell if it was natural or knocked from the teams above….
We debated going to the summit that afternoon but opted for the rest at the hut and an early start. We set off the following morning after the 2am breakfast and into the cloud. We had a cold northerly wind and stopped to put on layers after the Dome du Gouter. It was touch and go whether to carry on becasue of the wind but although cold it was very steady rather than gusty and so we continued.
It was some of the worst weather I’d sumitted in for quite a long time, icicles on the eye lashes and stubble! The boys did very well and we were the first teams to the top. It was still thick cloud but just started to clear as we were on the top and the views on the way down were stunning in contrast.
We made equally quick time on the descent and were drinking beer in Les Houches by one o’clock. A very satisfying and memorable day. Massive congratulations to Joe and Wayne on a hard won summit.
Perfect conditions and weather on the Trois Monts route on Mont Blanc.
The summit of Breithon central with the main west summit in the background.
Cloud inversion below the Gouter hut on Mont Blanc.
Wild and windy weather on the summit of Mont Blanc. Camera lens getting coated in rime ice.
Descending towards the Bosses on the Gouter route, Mont Blanc.
Friday 10th July 2020
Another superb week of weather and conditions in the valley this past week. We are just down from Mont Blanc yesterday where we traversed the mountain from the Italian side, up the Pope route and down via the Gouter.
Conditions are still really good on the south side of the mountain with good bridges over the crevasses and the narrow snow arete was well tracked. It’s a long way though and significantly harder than the Gouter variation. But if you’re keen for a challenge and feeling fit then it’s a great way to climb the mountain.
There were quite a few people coming over the Bionassy ridge and also from the Aiguille du Midi via the Trois Monts which is still sounding pretty technical around the Mont Maudit area. The grand couloir still has a fair amount of snow in it and the rockfall was minimal. The wire is in place for crossing. We used crampons to cross the couloir but didn’t need them for the arete itself which is nice and quick.
Next week we have a couple of groups out on Mont Blanc and starting thier prep in both Zermatt and Italy before the Pope Route and gouter route so we should have some more info on those routes by the end of the week.
Looking up towards Mont Blanc from the Gonella refuge.
The long moraine covered Miage glacier leading down to Val Veny. The hut walk is around five to six hours.
Rob on the summit of Mont Blanc after having climbed from the Gonella refuge.
Looking down from the summit ridge of Mont Blanc. Bionassy summit on the right and Domes de Miage on the left. The Italian pope route goes left to right from the middle of the picture, track visible if you look closely.
Descending the lower slopes from the Dome du Gouter with the magnificent Bionassy as a backdrop.
Sunday 5th July 2020
Great conditions out here in the alps at the moment and with the various european travel restrictions allowing more travel from this week (including the UK) we are looking forward to getting busier with some guiding over the next few weeks after what has obviously been a quiet time in the mountains.
The snow has settled well and many classic routes are in very good condition for the time of year. On Wednesday 1st I guided Ollie on another big adventure taking in the extended/full traverse of the Domes de Miage. It was a totally brilliant day out on this classic route and it resulted in quite a lengthy blog post which you can read here.
Many such snow routes are in good condition including the Bionassy traverse, Mont Blanc, Grand Paradiso, Kuffner arete and more. We are heading over to the Italian side of Mont Blanc this coming week so will hopefully have some good photos and a trip report for you soon.
Although many of our scheduled trips for this summer have been disrupted we are busy matching people up for trips into the hills, so if you’d like to climb something this season then drop us a line to discuss ideas.
Building lenticular clouds over Mont Blanc, with the Aiguille de Bionnassey on the left. Definitly the wild side of Mont Blanc.
Sunday 28th June 2020
The fine and settled weather has continued in the Chamonix area over the last few days with many folk out enjoying short and big routes in the mountains.
In fact the main issue over the last few days is the high tempretures, reaching thirty degrees in Chamonix itself. If there hasn’t been an overnight freeze then the snow up high has been awful with many teams turning back despite early starts. Either the trail breaking is desperate but more concerning is the potential for snow “sluffs”, mini wet snow avalanches that can easily knock you off your feet and have serious consequences.
On the travel front it looks very hopeful that the UK will annouce “air bridges” over the next few days and an end to the fourteen day quarantine UK travellers face when they return home. We also need the FOC travel advice to change so that travel insurance is valid for UK citizens and then we are good to go.
You can read more on the BBC here.
We’ve had some low level adventures exploring some new climbs as well as some father-daughter wild camping near the Aiguille Rouge. So good to be up high and sleeping under canvas, very exciting if it’s your first time too!
The start of the track leading to the Via Corda above Servoz. Lots of steep trail before scrambling and traversing over rock and steep path. The final three pitches to finish at the cafe were great.
Checking out the view from the campsite – pretty spectacular especially with the building storm clouds.
Room with a view – looking towards Aiguille du Midi
Thursday 25th June 2020
It was thirty degrees in the Chamonix valley yesterday and the mountains were looking pretty spectacular in the clear air after the recent snows.
We’ve had a busy couple of days, with a climb of the exellent Via Corda on Tuesday and a rapid ascent-descent on the Grand Paradiso on Wednesday 24th. Read the full trip report here.
The Dru taken from the lunch spot on the Via Corda.
Conditions on Mont Blanc are reported to be very good with snow all the way from the Tete Rousse hut up past the Grand Couloir.
We have a Mont Blanc trip going on the Italian side starting on the 11th July. That will be too soon for some of our clients depending on EU borde restrictions etc but for those that can travel and are interested give us a shout. Here’s the dedicated trip page with more details.
Monday 22nd June 2020
The good weather has returned to the alps and lots of folk out enjoying the snowy conditions on the hill. We are still very quiet on the guiding front and most of our regular (and new) climbers are unable to join us here yet. But it is looking very hopeful for July and into August and the rest of the guiding season.
Many folk are planning slightly different itineries to avoid to many hut nights. Although this does involve some big days! Both the Grand Paradiso and Mont Blanc from valley to summit are in the diary. It’ll be an interesting summer!
Anyway, conditions wise the north face of the Aiguille du Midi is getting climbed by the classic routes such as the Frendo Spur, Malloy and Eugster diagonal. When it’s in condition it’s a superb place to practice some long routes without the worry of a complicated descent.
Mont Blanc’s normal route is getting regular traffic now as well as the Tacul from the Midi.
Mont Blanc from the Arve valley.
Refuge Moede de Anterne on a training day last week.
Tuesday 9th June 2020
We’ve had a few days of really wet weather here in the alps. That means some good snow higher up (above 3000m) which is useful to keep the glaciers in condition for the summer.
Good news on the lift front. The SkyWay lift from Courmayeur is opening this Saturday 13th.
Details on their website here.
Friday 5th June 2020
After being restricted to a 1km radius for the duration of the lockdown it’s been amazing to have some freedom again and enjoy the surrounding hills and mountains.
Since the lockdown was lifted the Chamonix locals have obviously been out in the mountains and doing the usual impressive stuff inclding some steep skiing off the Aiguille du Midi lift on Mont Blanc du Tacul and climbing on the high apline granite.
Huts remain shut for the moment, although they are looking to open from mid June including the Mont Blanc huts.
The Chamonix lifts are reopening to their normal schedule (pretty much). You can see the dates here.
We are still waiting for news of the Swiss border opening and obviously the UK too. Our June alpine trips have been cancelled or postponed until later in the season but fingers crossed July and the rest of the season will be back to some sort of normal.
Sunset on Mont Blanc. From left to right – Mont Maudit, Mont Banc, Gouter, Bionassy and Domes du Miage.
An alpine Ibex mountain goat near Chamonix. The village of Servoz in the background.
Popping through the cloud layer whilst out trail running above Servoz, Chamonix valley.
