The transformation from winter conditions to summer continues since the last blog. There is still plenty of snow around for the time of year, the glaciers are in good condition and the snow routes are generally excellent.

For rock routes there is still a lot of snow either on the approaches or on the rock itself. South facing routes are the order of the day. The aiguille rouge is getting climbed on, but there is tons of snow up there, so axes and crampons are required, especially after an overnight freeze.

Some of the classic mountaineering routes are superb, with hard frozen snow in the morning and the rock clear of snow higher up. See our Weissmies report from yesterday, just brilliant conditions. Routes like the Cosmiques Arete, Pointe Lachenel, Marbrees and Entreves from the Midi or Helbronner.

At the top of the valley the Aiguille du Tour normal route and table couloir are both getting climbed, as is the Tete Blanche normal route and north face (again very good conditions).

Mont Blanc is seeing ascents from pretty much every side at the moment. The Gouter route is popular of course, the three monts from the Aiguille du midi is tracked and people are climbing from the Italian side, on the Gonella route, Inominata ridge and even the Brenva spur.

And talking of snowy north faces, the Grand Paradiso is still a path, with good snow all the way.

The Frendo spur has also been getting climbed, along with the Mallory and Eugster on the Aiguille du Midi north face. Other shady routes that are seeng ascents in that area include Vent du Dragon and ice lines on the Triangle du Tacul.

It’s that nice situation where you can climb rock in the sun or ice in the shade. Just watch the freezing levels and your timings….. It’s a great start to the summer season, and hopefully we will avoid the heat of last year. Good climbing 🙂

Windy up top, but good training conditions on the Petit Aiguille Verte

Windy up top, but good training conditions on the Petit Aiguille Verte

The Forbes arete on the Chardonnet and the normal route on the Aiguille Argentiere have both seen ascents last week.

The Forbes arete on the Chardonnet and the normal route on the Aiguille Argentiere have both seen ascents last week.

Looking across the North Faces of the Verte and Droites

Looking across the North Faces of the Verte and Droites

South face of the Aiguille du Midi seeing lots of traffic

South face of the Aiguille du Midi seeing lots of traffic

My friend Rob has been out climbing too:

Ace day yesterday on Vent du Dragon with Miles . A good way to start 7 weeks in Cham.

A photo posted by Rob Pitt (@robpitt76) on