I have spent this week climbing with a young lad called Stan, he is 14 and from London, a regular climber at his local wall for the last few years and even competing and winning at some high level competitions. This promised to be an exceptional few days of climbing, and it did not disappoint.
9th Aug 2013
Dartmoor Granite, Dewerstone.
We meet on Friday morning at the Dewerstone, we have a quick chat about Stan’s hopes for the course, and this comes in a very 14 year old answer of a slight squash of the face and a shrug of the shoulders, so we agree to see how things pan out. As with all climbers we work with, we like to make sure the basics are in place before we get off the ground. Tying in, placing wires and cams, and bringing it all together for belays on single and multi-pitched routes. This turned out to be a walk in the park so it was time to put it all into action. I lead Agag’s slab (VD), as a warm up, Stan followed and it was clear to see he should be on the sharp end, his long suffering mum belayed him up Mambo Slab (VD), and I climbed alongside him, with a super cool head Stan was making this look very easy so we headed for the main area and Stan’s eyes lit up, with a look of; this is proper climbing. We nipped up Central Grove (HS) (one of the South West top 50 climbs) to look at multi pitch belays, and then it was Stan’s tern. Reverse Cleft (S 4a), three pitches with an exciting crevasse to finish, great climbing. Then there was just enough time for one last route Leviathan (VS 4c), Stan swanned up this, much to the annoyance of a local who has been thinking of doing this route for a few years. We finish the day with a chat about our plans for Saturday and Sunday, Chudleigh or a Hound Tor, Torbryan mix.
10th Aug 2013
Dartmoor Limestone, Chudleigh.
Chudleigh has a bit of a bad rep for its polish but it does still have a few gems up its sleeve, we decide to jump in straight where we left off at Dewerstone and head for Great Western (VS 5a). Stan climbs the crux with good style, he then dispatches InkermansGroove (VS 4c) (another one of the South West top 50 climbs) and Gagool (E1 5b) with ease. I lead Combined Ops (E2 5b) and pull the ropes leaving key bits of gear in place, Stan then leads this, we finish the day with Machete Wall (E1 5c), another great day’s climbing.
Stan leading the superb “Inkermans Groove”
Stan Harris leading the technical climb of “Gagool” E1 5b at Chudleigh
11th Aug 2013
Dartmoor Granite and South Devon Sport.
We start the day at Hound Tor a quick tour of the bouldering then it’s back to work. Stan Climbs Suspension Flake (VS 4c) (another of the South West top 50 climbs)then Hydraulic Arete (HVS 4b). We have the option of staying on the moors or making for Torbryan. Torbryan it is, via a very nice cuppa at The Hound of the Basket Meals van. Our new location is a sport climbing venue and Stan is in his element, we warm up on Boogie on Down then Stan takes the lead on sighting Barney Rubble 7a+ and Thread Flintstone 7b (another of the South West top 50 climbs)and only just missing the very long reach of Mayday 6c. Finally with sore arms we make big plans for Monday.
The ever popular classic – “Suspension Flake” at Hound Tor
The sport climbing venue of Torbryan Quarry has some great tufa formations. “Thread Flintstone” is the route of the crag. Fr7b
12th Aug 2013
Culm Coast, Lower Sharpnose.
The Rock Fax guide book description for Lower Sharpnose
‘Lower Sharpnose has some of the best single pitch sea cliff climbs in Britain. The rock formations are unique and spectacular, consisting of three huge fins of rock thrusting out into the ocean and only a few metres thick for most of their length. Just walking around the base of the fins is inspiring enough but once on the routes you will be absorbed by some superb, intricate and sustained climbing which is mainly in the higher grades. The rock is weird bubbly grey stuff (it is actually sandstone but describing it as such might give people the wrong impression since it isn’t like any other sandstone you will have seen). Sometimes it is a bit sandy and there are quite a few rounded holds. The faces are crossed by some attractive quartz bands which offer some respite in the form of more positive holds, and many deep breaks which offer the sanctuary of gear. Leaving a break to gain the next one is often the basis of the crux section. Several of the routes use the breaks to gain distant sections of the face and there are, or course, a few classic traverse lines.’
As the tide is not out far enough we have to abseil to the base of the cliff. The first route of the day is the massive Clawtrack (HVS 4c) at 40m the largest single pitch Stan has ever led followed by a very exciting abseil from the summit spike. We then climb Out of the Blue (E2 5b) and have a spot of lunch soaking up sunshine. Now with the tide out far enough we walk around to the base and decide on Lunakhod (HVS 5a) (South West top 50 climbs) at 42m another monster route. Lastly we finish the day with the exceptional The Smile (E1 5a) (South West top 50 climbs). In four days Stan has shown great precision and ability, not only in his climbing movement but in all aspects of climbing and not forgetting he has now ticked off some of the great South West climbs!
It’s official – Stan is the man!
