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Dent du Geant, Italy

Route:

Normal Route – Dent du Geant - Chamonix

Category:

Mountaineering

Route description:

One of the most spectacular 4000m summits in the alps, the Dent du Geant sticks out from the surrounding peaks drawing the eye from miles around.

It's an impressive rock formation that attracts a lot of attention from mountaineers, and it is not uncommon to have to queue on busy summer days.

The Dent du Geant (giants tooth) was first climbed by the South-West face using artificial aid and fixed ropes, and this style of climbing continues on this route to this day. Large gym like ropes are strung up the face, allowing you to climb on an otherwise very difficult route.

Despite the fixed ropes, the route is highly physical as you pull yourself up the steeper sections. The altitude plays a part too, with the summit just over 4000m, you will feel the thin air.

To access the base of the Dent, we climb broken ground and steep snow after leaving the glacier. This approach takes around 2 hours from the refuge.

Lightweight mountaineering boots are normally fine, or warm rock shoes once you get onto the rock.

It is common to start from the Torino refuge early in the morning, rather than catching the first lift of the day.

Required experience/skill level:

Advanced

Good general mountaineering skills and some rock climbing strength very useful.

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4013m

700m ascent from Torino refuge

Time/duration:

1 day

5 – 6 hours from Torino refuge.

3 – 4 hours descent to refuge from the summit.

Starting point/base:

Helbronner lift/Torino refuge.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

June - October

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

There are a number of great short routes accessible from the Torino refuge, meaning a two or three day trip in this area with the Dent du Geant being the ultimate objective works well for training and acclimatisation.

We would recommend the traverse of the Entreves, a night in the Torino hut followed by the Dent du Geant from an early breakfast.

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5 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Awoke to a wild and blustery day at the Britannia refuge this morning. Plans were scrapped, extra coffees were drunk and we headed down.

Finished the day with some scrambling and summits on the Perron traverse above the Emosson Dam. A day salvaged.

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Fresh snow but summer temperatures on the 4000m Allalinhorn today.

It was nice to follow a track this morning. Tomorrow’s trail breaking is going to be a workout 😬

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1 week ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

Back up in the #alpine again and enjoying the autumn weather and conditions.

Lots of rime ice on the Marbrees traverse this morning. Scottish.

Off to tick off a couple of Swiss 4000m peaks this weekend.

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Perfect autumn climbing weather. Photo: @allyswinton of Sara scrambling across the Perrons yesterday. The classic rocky ridge line above the Emosson reservoir.

It’s been a mixed few days weather wise, and the original plan of climbing the Grand Paradiso was out on hold. Flexibility is the key to a happy trip :)

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We are open for enquires 7 days a week all year, we check and respond to emails once a day during the high season

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