- Useful Info
Normal Route – Dent du Geant - Chamonix
One of the most spectacular 4000m summits in the alps, the Dent du Geant sticks out from the surrounding peaks drawing the eye from miles around.
It's an impressive rock formation that attracts a lot of attention from mountaineers, and it is not uncommon to have to queue on busy summer days.
The Dent du Geant (giants tooth) was first climbed by the South-West face using artificial aid and fixed ropes, and this style of climbing continues on this route to this day. Large gym like ropes are strung up the face, allowing you to climb on an otherwise very difficult route.
Despite the fixed ropes, the route is highly physical as you pull yourself up the steeper sections. The altitude plays a part too, with the summit just over 4000m, you will feel the thin air.
To access the base of the Dent, we climb broken ground and steep snow after leaving the glacier. This approach takes around 2 hours from the refuge.
Lightweight mountaineering boots are normally fine, or warm rock shoes once you get onto the rock.
It is common to start from the Torino refuge early in the morning, rather than catching the first lift of the day.
Required experience/skill level:
Good general mountaineering skills and some rock climbing strength very useful.
Length (in metres):
700m ascent from Torino refuge
5 – 6 hours from Torino refuge.
3 – 4 hours descent to refuge from the summit.
Helbronner lift/Torino refuge.
Maximum guide ratio:
June - October
Links/ featured courses:
There are a number of great short routes accessible from the Torino refuge, meaning a two or three day trip in this area with the Dent du Geant being the ultimate objective works well for training and acclimatisation.
We would recommend the traverse of the Entreves, a night in the Torino hut followed by the Dent du Geant from an early breakfast.