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Mittellegi Ridge – Eiger

Route:

Mittellegi Ridge – Eiger - Switzerland

Category:

Mountaineering, Big Peaks

Route description:

This superb route features difficulties on both snow and rock, and even the hut approach is a good alpine climb in it's own right! Tip toeing along the final snow arete, with the north face and all its history below is a memorable experience.

Ascent of the Mittellegi Ridge

Once at the hut, there is no objective danger, and the rock is pretty solid. There are a few sections of fixed rope on the blanker areas of rock, but this isn't a via ferrata, there are long sections of scrambling and short steps that are tricky as well. The scrambling is never too hard, but it is continuous, and steady foot work is more important than raw rock climbing ability.

There's a little bit of down climbing as well, and a short (20m) abseil.

The final snow arete is spectacular, and requires solid crampon technique and a cool head.

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Descending the south ridge of the Eiger

The South ridge of the Eiger warrants respect as well, and gets an Alpine grade of AD. During the descent from the summit there are several abseils to be made and a lot of scrambling.

The final climb to the EigerJoch features both rock and snow, and the rock climbing is surprisingly good. Even after a long day the moves are enjoyable!

Required experience/skill level:

 

 

 

Advanced. The length, exposure and committing nature of the route requires both confidence and experience.

Previous experience on long AD terrain is a must. The Dent du Geant and the Matterhorn are both good training climbs!

Length (in metres):

615m

Time/duration:

2 days. Allow about two hours for the approach to the Mittellegi hut.

In good conditions, four hours should be sufficient for the ascent. Then another four hours or so for the south ridge and traverse to the MonchJoch hut.

Starting point/base:

Eismeer Station - Grindelwald – Switzerland 

Maximum guide ratio:

1:1

Normal season:

June – September depending on conditions.

Links/ featured courses:

Big Peaks

There's a detailed blog on our 2018 ascent of the Mittellegi Ridge here.

Lifts/huts etc:

The Mittellegi Hut.

The MonchJoch Hut

Eiger Summit weather.

Comments/notes:

A truly great trip of one of the world's most famous mountains.

We commonly climb this over three days, spending the second night at the Monchjoch hut, and climbing the 4000m Month on the final day.

Additional expenses;

The Jungfraujoch train is amazing, and amazingly expensive: 180chf return in 2018. That's 360chf (£290) for you and a guide.

The MonchJoch Hut is 107chf for one and a guide for a night, half board. Budget more for drinks/snacks etc.

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