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South West Ridge – Pollux PD+, III

South West Ridge – Pollux - Zermatt

South West Ridge – Pollux - Zermatt

Category:

Mountaineering & Ski Touring

Route Gallery:

Route description:

Pollux is a bit of a snow bump on the ridge when viewd from Zermatt, but the mountain offers several short and accessible routes and from the summit there is a magnificent panorama of the surrounding giants.

The south-west ridge of pollux is the normal route, and offers a varied climb including some scrambling, a harder pitch (complete with fixed chains to pull on) followed by a snow arete to the summit.

It can be a bit crowded on summer days, due to the bottle neck nature of the chains, and this can add to the timings listed below.

For fast teams in good conditions it is possible to make a climb of both Castor and Pollux in a single day, especially if using the Guide d'Ayas refugio rather than rushing back to the lift.

Required experience/skill level:

Beginner - Intermediate

Length (in metres):

Summit: 4092m

350m ascent from Klien Matterhorn lift.

670m from Val d'Ayas refugio

Time/duration:

4 hours in ascent, 3 hours descent to Klien Matterhorn

Starting point/base:

Klien Matterhorn lift accessed from Zermatt, or Guide d'Ayas refugio.

Maximum guide ratio:

1:2

Normal season:

Normally Mid June to end of September, but conditions vary every season.

Can also be climbed on skis as part of a ski mountaineering trip in the region.

Links/ featured courses:

Lifts/huts etc:

Comments/notes:

Lots of other ascents in this area, including the twin of Pollux, Castor.

The half traverse of the Briethorn is another good option, all of which can be climbed from Zermatt using the Klien Matterhorn lift, or from the excellent Guide d'Ayas refugio.

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Last lift accessed ski tour of (my) season from Contamines yesterday.

Plenty of folk out enjoying the good conditions on the classics.

A weeks holiday away from the mountains now. Rest time before the @trofeomezzalama race at the end of the month.

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#britishmountainguides
#skimo #skiuphill
#scarpa_uk #arcteryx
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6 days ago

Vertical Frontiers Ltd

A big couple of days on the wild Miage glacier taking advantage of the great spring ski touring conditions.

Up Mont Tondu and then today over the Miage after a night in the Conscrits refuge. Which served a vegetarian meal to the whole hut last night, meaning it’s now my favourite refuge. 🌱

Over 3500m of ascent and some very good snow on the way down.

#verticalfrontiers #earnyourturns
#chamonix #contamines
#britishmountainguides
#scarpa_uk #arcteryx @ Chamonix, France
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Off the beaten track in the Aiguille Rouge today.

#verticalfrontiers #earnyourturns
#skimo #skitouring
#britishmountainguides
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Updated the Iran Ski Touring Photo Gallery today. Video on it's way.... #ski
buff.ly/2U5iPBP
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Well the express Haute Route didn’t exactly go to Plan. A meter of fresh snow at altitude put paid to that.

We headed south and spent a great couple of days around the Mont Thabor area. Nice hut, quiet and loads of good skiing. Despite the cloud.

#verticalfrontiers #skimo
#earnyourturns
#britishmountainguides
#arcteryx #scarpa
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