Dartmoor and Devon Classic Climbing Routes, HVS – E2.

A must do, recommended route list for the visiting climber.

We’ve picked ten routes for the following grade ranges;

1. Diff – Severe
2. Hard Severe – Very Severe
3. HVS – E2
4. E3 – E5

There’s a whole range of climbs from single pitch Dartmoor high balls to multi pitch adventure routes on the sea cliffs. We’ve climbed all of them at some point or another and some of them many, many times. Let us know what you think.

Check out javu.co.uk for some up to date route info, and of course the South Devon and Dartmoor and West Country Climbs guidebooks for topos etc.

Use your own judgment, a few of the routes are run out, loose or both, but that adds to their charm and adventurous nature!

HVS – E2, top ten classic routes.

1. Last Exit to Torquay, HVS – Daddyhole main cliff

Well protected butch climbing up the main corner line of this crag. Can be done in one mega pitch or split into two. Great climbing.

2. Aviation, E1 – Hay tor, Low man.

A soft touch E1 up Dartmoor’s most recognised tor. Normally split into two pitches it has some good contrasting climbing, a steep crack to start followed by a technical and delicate traverse to the belay. A must do route.

3. Moonraker, HVS – Berryhead.

Devon’s premier adventure route for the grade, this really is a stunning route up an intimidating crag. Pretty solid rock, dashed with some seagull mess and the odd rusty peg is a surprise, as it looks quite loose from a distance. Don’t be put off by the first pitch (which looks steep) as it has great holds and gear and leads naturally up to the main corner lines. You can abseil into the start with a 60m rope but for the full moonraker experience you should traverse in at low tide.

4. The Spider, E1 – Chudliegh.

One of Chudleigh’s best routes, The Spider weaves it’s way up two contrasting pitches. The first is bold and a little slabby, the second well protected and pumpy. Awesome.

5. Hostile Witness, E2 5c – Bench Tor.

Home to some other top ten classics (see previous blogs) Bench Tor has some harder offerings as well. I thought Hostile Witness was really good, managing to have some pumpy and delicate climbing in it’s short length. Well worth the walk in.

6. Aerobic wall, E2 – Hound Tor.

The most popular E2 on Dartmoor, Aerobic wall stands out as you wander around Hound tor trying to work out where the routes are. Quite a hard onsight, the route is often top roped and often soloed by locals (who know where all the holds are of course). In fact, it’s defiantly easier to solo, much less strenuous than trying to place the gear on the lead. I tried the onsight years ago, when I was pushing into the E2 grade and ended up taking a good lob off the crux. Two weeks later I returned and soloed the route, which felt much easier!

7. Incusbus, E1 – Long quarry point/sanctuary wall, Torbay.

Traditionally HVS, Incubus traverse’s into the mighty Sanctuary wall from Long Quarry Point. Very exposed, but fairly reasonable climbing leads across and then up this steep crag. Quite intimidating for a HVS leader, but if you can get your head around it you’ll find a very satisfying route.

8. Outward Bound, HVS – Hay Tor, Low Man.

A soft touch HVS for technicality, but solid HVS for where the route goes, threading it’s way through quite a sizable roof on bucket sized holds. Some care needs to be taken with the gear, but with a determined attitude you can get around onto the less steep ground quickly. There’s even a no hands rest half way across the roof, if you can find it…

9. Scimitar, E1 – Dewerstone.

One of many quality E1’s at the Dewerstone, this one happens to be my favourite. Some steep moves around a arete/roof lead onto the upper wall which has easier, but run-out climbing.

10. Sacre Coer, E2 – Blackchurch.

Set on the tidal pinnacle of rock at black church, this sits away from the main cliff. Up the middle of the slab, Sacre Coer is sustained, and well protected. Whilst your here, have a look at “Loose Woman” on the main cliff, but take care on the top pitch which is a bit loose.