A must do, recommended route list for the visiting climber.
We’ve picked ten routes for the following grade ranges;
- Diff – Severe
- Hard Severe – Very Severe
- HVS – E2
- E3 – E5
There’s a whole range of climbs from single pitch Dartmoor high balls to multi pitch adventure routes on the sea cliffs. We’ve climbed all of them at some point or another and some of them many, many times. Let us know what you think.
Check out javu.co.uk for some up to date route info, and of course the South Devon and Dartmoor and West Country Climbs guidebooks for topos etc.
Use your own judgment, a few of the routes are run out, loose or both, but that adds to their charm and adventurous nature!
Hard Severe – Very Severe, top ten classic routes.
1. Wreckers Slab, VS – Corkney Cliff.
The north coast of Devon and Cornwall can have a reputation for being a tad loose… and this route certainly had that reputation when it was first climbed. Nowadays it weaves it’s way up the most solid part of the cliff (in three or four pitches) and because of it’s popularity it’s been cleaned of most its looseness. At almost 400ft high, it’s a great adventure route.
The Mighty Wreckers slab, looking down at the first belay.
2. Inkermans groove, VS – Chudleigh.
A rite of passage for the Devon climber, inkermans groove is a steep limestone route up the tallest section of crag. An exposed traverse in it’s middle is it’s highlight, after that you’ve got to just keep on putting the gear in and you’ll be at the top soon enough.
Starting the traverse on Inkermans Groove, Chudliegh.
3. Central groove, HS – The Dewerstone.
An excellent line, great gear and superb climbing. Need I say more? A totally must do route, you might have to queue on a bank holiday! Two pitches of climbing with an exposed belay in between. Go and do it!
The superb Central Groove at the Dewerstone.
4. Kinky Boots, VS – Baggy Point.
Oh yes, what a route! A non-tidal sea cliff, exposure and a start where you literally have to fall across the rock crevasse at the beginning. Quite an intimidating route, but as soon as you’ve done it you’ll want to do it again. Take a belay before the “fall” across the crevasse and look after your rope work to prevent drag on the first pitch.
The belay (just after the crux) on Kinky Boots, Baggy point.
5. Suspension Flake, VS – Hound Tor.
A short route, once rated the best VS in Britain. I’m not sure about that, but it certainly is good, and pack a punch into it’s modest length. Massive hand holds, tiny foot holds and instant exposure adds up to a memorable route.
6. Swan lake, HS – Foggintor Quarry.
A bit of a curveball this one. But I really like it so it’s gone into the list! All on it’s own in the middle of Dartmoor, this quarried route steps around the corner from a nice grassy platform and suddenly your 20ft up and quite exposed. Easyish climbing, but the gears a little fiddly. There are a few easier line nearby but it is an esoteric venue, 20 minutes walk from the nearest road.
7. Lost Horizon, VS – Baggy Point.
Over on the long slab, this route would be HVS but for the huge amount of gear you could stuff into the crack your climbing. Sustained for it’s entire length this route is slabby but technical and your arms will be fatigued by the top. You could take an el-cap rack if you like, but some tactical run outs will save the gear and the arms.
8. Mushroom wall, VS – Sheeps Tor.
Sheeps tor has a whole collection of routes from Diff to HVS and is perfect on a still summers day. It can be bitterly cold in the wind but in the right conditions it’s a great place to hang out, watch your friends climb and sample some of the (slightly polished) granite.
One of the many short, quality granite crack climbs at Sheeps Tor.
9. Levitation, HS – Hay Tor.
On Hay Tor’s low man, this route has some typical granite climbing. Some slopey foot holds, flakes for gear and some nice exposure. You can escape rightwards after the difficulties but it’s best to finish up the main slabs and top out on the summit.
10. Triton/Gates Of Eden – VS/HVS – Daddyhole, main cliff.
Ok, so two routes? Well, both are really good, although gates of Eden’s first pitch suffered a rockfall which has upped it’s grade to HVS, and Tritons first pitch is a bit scrappy (although the top pitch makes up for it).
Basically, you could do both, and have a really good day out on this non-tidal sea cliff. If you abseil in from the top you can avoid the first pitches, but for the full tick you should start from the bottom.
Daddyhole Main Cliff.
