A great couple of days here in the Cairngorms. The big storm is due to hit later today so we’re seizing an opportunity for a rest day and some coffee drinking in Aviemore.
On Tuesday we headed to Carn Etchachan and climbed “Nom Du Plume” which was a mixed grade VI, 7 which produced three brilliant pitches. Some steep hooking on bomber placements led into a chimney and finally a steep corner to finish.
It was a fantastic day, light winds and great visibility so it was good to put some extra effort in and walk over to the Loch Avon basin rather than heading into the northern corries.
Nick Arding seconding the crux pitch of Nom Du Plume
Looking across towards Hells Lum and the Shelterstone
On Wednesday the weather was due to be a bit wilder, winds and snow showers so we opted for a shorter walk and headed into Coire An Lochain to see what the conditions were like.
We choose “Hookers corner” in the end which was definatly in “full” winter condition, being heavily plastered with snow and rime on the lower pitch. It gets a grade of VI, 7 but felt fairly sustained and a little bold in places because the gear placements were hard to uncover.
Along with the spindrift getting blown up the cliff it felt like quite a battle. I now feel like we’ve had the proper introduction back into the Scottish scene!
Some friends Tania and Rocio were climbing the Hoarmaster next door and we met at the first belay and followed them up the second pitch. There’s plenty of snow and ice in the northern corries, so plenty more to climb but not the easiest conditions at the moment.
No. 3 Buttress in Coire An Lochain
Full Conditions on Hookers Corner
Battling the wind on the abseil back into the Coirre.
