Commando Ridge and Bosigran

Over the past couple of weeks Chris and I have been keeping an eye on the weather forecast in the south-west with a view of heading down to Cornwall for three days of sea cliff climbing.

Chris has been down climbing with me a few times now, on Dartmoor, Portland and Cheddar Gorge and is quickly developing into a steady climber, he was looking to do some trad leading in Cornwall so we wanted dry rock, something which can be in short supply in December!

Finally last week the forecast was looking better, although Sunday was going to be touch and go on the dry front…

A plan developed, and after picking Chris up from Exeter train station we blasted right down to West Cornwall (with Chris catching up on some sleep on route). Despite the late start, and lack of day light hours, we decided on Commando Ridge at Bosigran for our Friday climb. Having climbed with Chris several times before I judged him ready for an adventure, so packing warm clothes and headtorches, we prepared for a late finish and started our approach to the route.

The rock was still wet and quite slippy in places on the decent and we needed to make a couple of abseils to reach the start of the climbing at sea-level. The tide (and swell) had beat us to it, and the normal start would have soaked us (or swept us into the sea) so reluctantly, we started a little higher and arrived at the top of the normal 1st pitch after a climb of around Vdiff to get there.

After that we were on the normal route, and with Chris climbing well he could follow me up some slightly tricky variations. The darkness closed in with two pitches to go, but it didn’t slow us down much and we were back at the car for six o’clock (having left it at three thirty).

That night’s meal and pint in the St Just’s Kings arms felt deserved, and we were entertained by the local male choir singing some “proper” Cornish songs!

Saturday dawned damp, but we were confident that the rock would dry out during the day, so a quick coastal run from the YHA and a good breakfast before heading to the crag meant that we arrived around 11.30 ready for Chris’s first trad lead.

We picked the classic “Alisons Rib” which has interesting climbing and tons of gear. Chris followed me up first, checking out my gear and after some discussions he then set off on the lead placing plenty of bomber gear (almost running out of quickdraws!) back up the route. He was totally ecstatic about the experience, and rightly so, and keen for more but the weather was bringing showers so I took the sharp end of the rope again and we climbed “Ledge Route” in two rapid pitches and then “In-between” just before it got dark again.

Our last day of the trip was always going to be iffy, and sure enoughon Sunday it was raining lightly, enough to soak everything totally. After another run towards Sennen we bailed, and drove back up to Exeter to spend the afternoon in the quay climbing wall.

Some falling off practice, and lots of technique coaching improved Chris Climbing and confidence, and he was mightily pumped by the end of the day!

So congratulations Chris, on your first trad lead! See you next time…