Ski Monta Rosa – Dufourspitze ascent
Description:
This is classic ski mountaineering, snow aretes, crampons, crevasses and variable snow.
The Monta Rosa area bordering Swiss Zermatt and the Italian val d’Aosta is full of wild and challenging peaks for climbing and skiing. This four day trip gives us some good training and acclimatisation whilst ticking off two excellent 4000m peaks before climbing the highest peak in Monta Rosa massif, the Dufourspitze.
After two nights up high we drop down to Zermatt for a second breakfast before catching the train to the Gornergrat station and the traverse to the Monta Rosa hut. A long day awaits us as we skin up the glacier leaving skis at the ridge line before scrambling the final ridge to the summit.
You will need to be confident with your ski touring skills such as kick turns, boot packing and descending on potentially tricky snow. If in any doubt give us a shout and we can talk you through what’s involved.
On our difficulty level you should be a level 4 skier or above. Your fitness level should be level 3 by the time of the trip.
Example Ski Monta Rosa four day Itinerary:
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Your travel day to Chamonix (or we can meet in Zermatt). If in Chamonix we would meet you the afternoon or evening before the trip to check gear and discuss plans etc. You could also have a half days skiing to get your legs back into the groove before the trip.
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An early start for the drive to Zermatt. We leave the car in Tasch before catching the train up to Zermatt itself. You will need to have all your gear for the week, although there are some left luggage options at the train station in Zermatt. After catching the Klien Matterhorn lift we climb the Breithon which is close to the lift and perhaps the easiest 4000m peak in the alps. A ski descent and traverse takes us to the Guide d’Ayas refuge for the night.
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Today we leave the hut after breakfast and aim to climb Pollux. This is a great peak and although we can’t ski from the summit is gives us a chance to scamble in boots and practice that sort of climbing which we will find on the Dufourspitze. You can read more about Pollux here. After regaining our skis we skin the long traverse back into the lift station and a short ski down the piste to the Testa Grigia hut where we spend the night. There is also an option to drop to Zermatt for a hotel night and showers (at additional cost).
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It’s time to get in position for the big climb. There are quite a few options to get to the Monta Rosa hut depending on winter snow conditions, some involve dropping onto the glacier from the Klien Matterhorn area and others using the lifts. Whatever happens we get a bit of skiing and skinning to reach the hut early afternoon to rest before the early start the following day.
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A very early start means skinning in head torches right from the hut, around crevasses and on up the Monta Rosa glacier. We leave the skis at the ridge around 4300m before climbing the final rock ridge to the summit (4634m). This final ridge is really good fun with just enough exposure to make it “interesting”. Back to the skis before a nice descent back to the Monta Rosa hut for refreshments and to collect any gear. We then continue our ski back to the lifts or Zermatt and return to Chamonix late afternoon/early evening. Night in Chamonix (not included).
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We would recommend a flight home the morning after your climb, unless you have a very late option from Geneva.
Monday 28th April – Thursday day 1st May 2025 – private guiding dates available on request.
Price per person: 2350€.
Guide ratio of 1:2.
Price includes:
Guiding fees, logistics, travel from Chamonix, parking in Tasch and train to Zermatt, one lift ticket to Klien Matterhorn, Half board in three mountain huts, lift ticket to Gornergrat.
Price excludes:
Any extra Chamonix accommodation, additional drinks, food, snacks etc at the huts, equipment rental, insurance, flights and any other expenses not listed above, including expenses involved with a change of itinerary.
Additional two days to Ski Mont Blanc
After such good training and acclimatisation, we have the option of skiing Mont Blanc at the end of the trip. We take a rest day in Chamonix, then have two days for Mont Blanc. Contact us for further information and costs.
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Comments/notes:
By booking this trip you agree to our full terms and conditions including the cancellation policy. The deposit is non-refundable. Please see our Terms and Conditions page
We comply with the Package Travel and Linked Travel Arrangements Regulations 2018
