After a what feels like a couple of weeks of unsettled weather and tricky conditions in the mountains, our Matterhorn trip this month all seemed to go to schedule and for once we spent the whole trip on plan A!

Starting the week with a escalating series of climbs and altitude set us up nicely for the Matterhorn, and we just escaped the shutting of the mountain due to a landslide on the approach path to the hut.

The Matterhorn itself was in great condition with dry rock all the way to the “shoulder” and then firm snow from there to the summit, as opposed to ice in some years.

The forecast was for an early afternoon storm, so we had some strict turnaround times so as not get caught on the upper mountain in deteriorating weather. With a fired up group and some very light rucksacks everyone was under the cut off time to the Solvay hut and continued the good pace all the way to the summit. Under four hours up, and four hours back down.

It was brilliant to have the summit to ourselves and have three groups on top at the same time.

As always it was a relief to have everyone back at the Hornli hut safe and sound. With the weather forecast and hut closure during the week all the guides were worried that the Matterhorn wasn’t going to happen. But with a quick ascent and a well trained bunch of climbers we pulled it off.

Thanks to fellow guides James, Ally and Neil for the solid guiding and congratulations to the crew once again!

Ce week-end, un individu originaire des pays de l’Est a été interpellé par les militaires du peloton de gendarmerie de haute montagne de Chamonix suite à une opération conduite samedi et dimanche, avec le concours des gendarmes de la compagnie de Chamonix.

Training on the East Ridge of the Grand Montet, day 1.

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

John on the traverse of the Entrees, day 2.

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

Pulling hard on the fixed ropes of the Dent du Geant

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

Steep abseils off the Dent du Geant

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

The full team outside the Hornli hut, Matterhorn in the background

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

Dawn on the Hornli Ridge.

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

The fixed ropes on the upper mountain were thankfully quiet as we ascended.

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

Ally and John on the summit ridge.

Matterhorn Mountain Guide

Team selfies on the summit of the Matterhorn