After a what feels like a couple of weeks of unsettled weather and tricky conditions in the mountains, our Matterhorn trip this month all seemed to go to schedule and for once we spent the whole trip on plan A!
Starting the week with a escalating series of climbs and altitude set us up nicely for the Matterhorn, and we just escaped the shutting of the mountain due to a landslide on the approach path to the hut.
The Matterhorn itself was in great condition with dry rock all the way to the “shoulder” and then firm snow from there to the summit, as opposed to ice in some years.
The forecast was for an early afternoon storm, so we had some strict turnaround times so as not get caught on the upper mountain in deteriorating weather. With a fired up group and some very light rucksacks everyone was under the cut off time to the Solvay hut and continued the good pace all the way to the summit. Under four hours up, and four hours back down.
It was brilliant to have the summit to ourselves and have three groups on top at the same time.
As always it was a relief to have everyone back at the Hornli hut safe and sound. With the weather forecast and hut closure during the week all the guides were worried that the Matterhorn wasn’t going to happen. But with a quick ascent and a well trained bunch of climbers we pulled it off.
Thanks to fellow guides James, Ally and Neil for the solid guiding and congratulations to the crew once again!
Training on the East Ridge of the Grand Montet, day 1.
John on the traverse of the Entrees, day 2.
Pulling hard on the fixed ropes of the Dent du Geant
Steep abseils off the Dent du Geant
The full team outside the Hornli hut, Matterhorn in the background
Dawn on the Hornli Ridge.
The fixed ropes on the upper mountain were thankfully quiet as we ascended.
Ally and John on the summit ridge.
Team selfies on the summit of the Matterhorn
