I’ve been using this for: Over five years

Where?: Scottish winters

Official website: http://www.paramo.co.uk/en-gb/garments/detail/index.php?pgc=NIKWAXINSULATORLTSMOCKTORRESUNISEX

And here on Amazon

This was my first dedicated “belay” jacket, before this I generally had layers on underneath or used a down jacket whilst in the alps.

My is an older model, the new version might be a tad lighter…

There are many jackets to choose from in the “belay jacket” category, but the main features i look for are:

  • General durability, as it’s going to get abused (in Scotland anyway)
  • Good pockets on the outside that I can get my hands into with gloves on
  • A full sized helmet hood, which is really important for climbing

Everything else is a bonus really, if it looks good enough to wear it to the pub then great!

Good Stuff:

The Paramo Torres jacket is a smock design, and pulling it on over your head does put some people off, but I never found it too much of an issue, although it does restrict access to some of your waterproof jacket pockets.

I do like it’s simple design, for instance on the wrist cuffs there’s some elastic in there, rather than velcro or something, which makes it easy to pull on and off over gloves and unlike a lot of other jackets where the velcro has worn out or come off, the Torres is still going strong.

The hood is big and roomy, no problem with getting it over a helmet.

This jacket is fairly beefy, it’s certainly pretty warm although it does make it heavy (see below). I’ve used this jacket on lots of routes, sharing it with my climbing partners who have all enjoyed the warmth compared to their lighter belay jackets at home.

This jacket is utterly bombproof. I have totally abused it over several seasons, especially in the granite chimneys. It’s got to be one of the toughest belay jackets out there, and it’s impressive that it’s stood up to my use over the last few years.

Not so good bits:

I’m not so sure about the “tube pocket” for your hands, I’d prefer a couple of zips to stow things if needed.

It’s heavy. The warm, bombproof materials are great, but you pay for those in weight.

I wouldn’t wear it to the pub. It’s definitely a functional item, great on the hill but not so great on the high street. That might not be a concern for you, or you might not be planning on wearing it for everyday use, but it’s worth a mention.

Conclusions:

You’ll be warm on the hill, it’ll last you years but you’ll have a heavier sack on the approach and will need to have something else in the car for when you go for post-climb pint.

Saxon wearing my Torres belay jacket, 2009.